There are thousands of different pigeon breeds.  Of course, I couldn’t go through them all right now, so I will attempt to narrow it down to some of the most common and unique ones.  First, we will categorize them into three major use groups:

• Flying/performing
• Show
• Utility (squab (meat) producers)

We’ll start with the flyers.

Flying Pigeon Breeds

Homing Pigeons:  The most popular breed of pigeon falls into this group: the Homing pigeon, AKA Homers.  These are very special birds.  Many have been recognized as “heroes,” pulling off great feats while serving for our country in the military.  There was one such bird who successfully delivered an important message saving many lives despite it being shot and severely wounded by the enemy.

As implied, they will return home when released from elsewhere, and, depending on the bloodline, may return from over 1,000 miles away!  The Homers vary a little in form but usually look like your typical wild pigeon, although often a little larger, tighter feathered, and more muscular, like a true athlete.  The birds used for “white dove releases” in weddings, funerals, and other events, are usually white Homers.  However, some inexperienced people actually use white doves, which don’t have as developed a homing instinct as the Homers.  These doves usually face a bleak future trying to survive after the release and should not be used.

The homing instinct in pigeons has been researched extensively by scientists, and it’s still not completely understood.  Some say they use the earth’s magnetic fields, moon, and sound or smell….. or all of these things. How ever they do it, all pigeons have a homing instinct, but due to that trait not being selected for breeding, some breeds can’t find their way home if they fly too far off and lose sight of their loft and familiar surroundings.  The Homers we have nowadays have been stringently selectively bred in years past, and still continue to be, to retain and develop this unique and powerful homing instinct that allows them to “home” from so far away.

Racing Competitions Flown by Homing Pigeons

There are different types of races, distinguished by the distance being spanned, and whether the birds being flown are “young birds” (birds that were bred that same year) or “old birds” (birds bred at any other time than the year in which the race is being held).  You may also fly only one bird or a hundred-plus.  Flyers usually ship or drop off their birds at a club location (check with your specific local club).  From there, the birds are all loaded into a modified truck with individual holding compartments.  The birds ride to the area of release and are then all let out together and they “race” back home.  When the bird(s) make it home, the handler takes off a special band, which was previously put on before the release, and inserts it into a clock that records the time.  These times are reported to the Club, and although there’s a little more complicated scoring system, basically, the bird with the fastest time wins.  Pigeon racers are a very dedicated set of fanciers, and most take their sport very seriously.

Homers are one of the hardiest and most prolific breeds.  But they do have one downfall, that they will return to their original owner’s place after you bring them home and let them out to fly.  After all, they are homers!  As I will explain in more detail below, this may be remedied by only buying very young birds, un-flown, that have just recently come out of the nest, or keeping adult pairs as “prisoners,” breeding them, and then only flying their young.  Either way, if you are interested in attaining/racing Homing pigeons, I would suggest you join one of the many clubs around the country.  The American Racing Pigeon Union is a great place to start and they would love to give you any help they can.

Highflyer Pigeons

Another flying breed that I have seen growing in popularity are the Highflyers.  These birds are bred for high and long endurance flights.  They are truly amazing, flying simply for the love of it.  On they go, go, and go, for hours.  Round and round, right above the loft; thus you have the option of competing with hundreds of other fanciers, the world over, right from the comfort of your own home and without dealing with any form of transportation for the birds. Highflyers are a family/group of breeds.  Some specific breeds in this group are Tipplers, Serbian Highflyers, Danzig Highflyers, and Iranian Highflyers.  Most get their names from the country of origin, and most Highflyers are from the Middle East, as many pigeon breeds are.  Some have crests on their heads and others may be muffed (feather-footed).  As with most breeds, these are hardy and will breed without problem.  The Flying Tippler Society is a good club to consider joining if you want to compete with Highflyers, the site also has some very good info.

The competition should be very easy and inexpensive to join.  There are a few competitions held throughout the year.  After conditioning your flyers, you just need to be assigned a judge by your local club to take record of your bird’s flight.  Among other things, the most important factor in judging is the time that the birds stay up and flying.

Performing Pigeon Breeds

Many of the breeds in this group are flying pigeons, but with a special surprise.  They do rolls, twists, and dives in flight.  It’s very entertaining!  As the homing instinct, the rolling trait has also been studied, though not as extensively.  It’s argued that the action is involuntary, maybe that’s the case in some breeds, but I favor the side that says it is an intentional and even learned act.  I witnessed my Rollers first learning to roll, and then improving and expanding their skills as they gained experience.  Who knows!

The different breeds are bred for different flight styles, for example:

Birmingham Rollers:  These are probably the most popular breed of roller pigeons.  They are a smaller, plain breed.  They should fly in tight kits (a group of pigeons that fly together and in unison) and roll simultaneously.  The tighter and more unified they roll, the better they will be judged.  They should look like a big ball of feathers falling from the sky!  They are among the easiest rollers to keep and train and are a good choice for beginners with no special considerations to note.

Flying Oriental Rollers (FOR):  FORs are a little larger-sized roller breed, with an interesting set of large, low-held wings and more tail feathers than other pigeons, from 14-20 vs the typical 12 of most other pigeons.  They also lack an oil gland, this, however, does not negatively affect them.

Interestingly, the first FORs were imported in 1927 to the Brooklyn Zoo and from there they spread all over the country.

FORs do not tend to fly in as united a kit as do the Birminghams and some others, but they have a greater array of acrobatic maneuvers, including dives, twists, loops, and rolls.  They also usually fly at a higher elevation.  FORs are also known to be great at evading most hawks and other birds of prey, something that can often prove to be a serious problem with flyers.  Many people have had to stop flying birds altogether because of problems with raptors.  They are a little harder to get up and rolling then the Birminghams, but are certainly worth the effort. Unfortunately, they are also rarer.

There are many breeds with “Tumbler” in their names, but most no longer retain the ability to roll or tumble!  Except for just a few, most are now strictly show breeds.  Flying tumblers still seem very obscure to me as my experience and study there is limited.

Coop Tumblers:  These are nice little birds, and some still perform.  They remain more of a group rather than a specific breed, showing a variety of ornamented and plain breeds.  There are some pure, rare ones that will still perform, such as the Syrian Coop Tumbler.  Be aware, however, that some “Coop Tumblers” are often just a fancy show breed crossed with a rolling breed and the resulting offspring that still retain some ability to tumble are sold as “Coop Tumblers.”  I suppose they’d still make fun and entertaining pets!  (But let’s do support pure breeds and proper breeding)

The last rolling-type breed I will list here is the Parlor Roller.  These birds are unique in that, once mature, they completely lack the ability of flight.  But they make up for it by rolling on the ground in a series of flips!  These are also very easy to raise and train and would make a good sport for the beginner.  The competitions are based on birds that roll the farthest.  These are also small and plain, bred primarily for performance rather than show.

There are a few different breeds that are very much performers, but different then the rollers.

Voice Pigeons:  These may be raised for show, but their special attribute is their “voice.”  All pigeons coo and grunt but, these do it much louder and longer, in addition to some other unique sounds.  When many unite, it can be quite a spectacle.  These aren’t very common, not many voice pigeons are, but a couple to look for would be the Thailand Laughers and Arabian Trumpeters.  Both will prove to be good birds, regular sized, plain, and don’t need any special considerations.

Thief Pouter Pigeons:  (“pouters” are a group of breeds that inflate their crops with air, and include other breeds that are not “thieves.”)  Now these are unique!  They were developed to go out and seduce other pigeons back to their own home.  It is a sport, but some used to use the captured pigeons as sustenance.  In the sport, two or more fanciers fly their birds and let them “work” each other, the birds coo, grunt, and dance around aggressively.  The one that gives in, and follows the other bird home, loses.  A variation, played solely with Pica Pouters, AKA Deportivos, is called “La Suelta,” originating in Spain, where many cocks, which are all distinctively painted by their owners with special paint, are let out after a single hen that has a white feather tied to her tail.  Different moves are appointed a certain amount of points.  But the closer a cock can get to the hen the more points are appointed him.

Although most breeds are used for both showing and flying, there are a couple Spanish Thief Pouters that are typically used solely for showing.  They are naturally tame, lacking any natural fear of humans.   With minimal handling, they become just like puppies, these two are the Marchanero and Gaditano Pouters.  The Gaditano is the more popular of the two.  These two breeds tend to have some breeding problems, particularly, the Gaditanos because of their large crops and the Marchaneros because of heavy inbreeding.  None of the Spanish Thief Pouters, with the exception of the Picas, are the best breeders.  They can get along, however, doing best if bred in single pairs rather than in a community loft.  The Horseman Thief Pouters are also good breeders, but they, too, still do best when bred in single pairs.

“Thieving” is not a very popular sport in the States, other than in a few locals, a very popular one being South FL. Groups of both Spanish and English origin played this sport, with their own special breeds and variations.  Most of the breeds now available are Spanish Thief Pouters (that’s a group of breeds) but there are the increasingly popular Horseman Thief Pouters (that’s a breed) which have an English ancestry.  The “Thieves” are a very entertaining set of birds, as they think very much of themselves and when let out to fly will constantly be putting on a show, clapping their wings in flight and dancing around other birds.  A few specific breeds of Spanish Thief Pouters are Picas, Moroncelos, Jiennenses, Balear, and Morrilleros.

Show Pigeon Breeds

Show breeds are kept primarily for competing with at the many pigeon shows around the country.  Birds are judged by the written Standard, and those that comply the best, of course, win.   Judging, rather than for performance, is based primarily on form and appearance.  They also make good pets, as do most pigeons, with handling, if that’s what you want out of them.

Most fancy show breeds should not be let out of their pen to fly, unless you are supervising to protect them from ground predators.  With many, the heavy ornamentation inhibits proper flight.  But even those that can fly well usually aren’t effective at escaping fast-flying birds of prey.  Another note, even breeds originally bred for other purposes, such as the voice, flying/performing and meat breeds, all have blood-lines/strains that have been bred specifically for the show ring; an important point to keep in mind when deciding what exactly you want and proceeding to obtain them.

Fantail:  This is one of the most popular show breeds out there.  And many are familiar with their very large, turkey/peafowl-like tails.  There are two kinds, the American Fantail and the Indian Fantail.  The American is smaller, clean-legged and plain-headed.  The Indian is quite large, muffed, and has a crest on its head.  Neither may be the best choice for the beginning breeder because they often have breeding problems, mainly caused by the large tails inducing low fertility, although they may be trimmed.  But, of course, this would only matter if you wished to breed them.  If you are not very deterred by that, and would still like to give them a try, they are known for a funny personality and their looks are simply spectacular to see.

Frillbacks:  These fairly large birds have beautiful, curly feathers and are known for being fair breeders, not flighty and have a generally very “easy” personality.  Not many cons on these.  Except that the ornamentation makes them less able to cope too well with bad weather or dirt.  They come both plain-headed and crested and they are muffed. Modenas:  These big, chubby, funny shaped birds are another popular show breed.  They are quite a bit larger than a feral pigeon.  Unfortunately, they are known for being more aggressive than some breeds, so single-pair breeding is recommended to keep conflicts in the loft to a minimum.  Neither are they known as the greatest breeders, but most will get along.  I wouldn’t recommend them as a first choice over some of the other breeds I will list, but they may be what’ll “float your boat!”  And I wouldn’t discourage you to at least give them a try if that’s the case.

Old German Owls:  This breed boasts a crest and a frill.  It’s a smaller one, with a shorter beak than some breeds, but not so short that it creates a problem with feeding the young.  It is a good breeder, beautiful, calm and charming. Although they are not a “flying breed,” they are known to be pretty decent flyers, putting on a show of interesting athleticism.

Classic Old Frills:  This breed looks a lot like the OGOs described above, but are muffed.  They have most all the same characteristics, too.  They are crested, frilled, good breeders, calm, have charming personalities, are smaller sized, and sport a short beak that gives them a very “cute” appearance.

West of England Tumbler:  These are show birds.  WOEs are quite a popular breed and have the attributes to make them as such – good looks, fair breeding ability, attractive personalities and without needing any special considerations except keeping things esspecially dry and clean for there muffs (feathered feet).   

The utility breeds are bred for squab production.  They are not only supposed to be large, but prolific and fairly fast growers.  There are many exceptionally large pigeon breeds, however not used for meat, the two breeds that are most popular for squab production are not gigantic but combine larger size with prolificacy and fast maturation.

American Giant Homers:  These birds were created by crossing large Homers with a few other breeds that would increase their size and productivity.  They are both a show and utility breed.  So make sure to get those bred for squab production.

Utility Kings:  These birds are usually pure white, where the Giant Homer (GH) more commonly comes in a few different colors.  They are probably more popular for squab production than the GH and would be a great choice.  Make sure you get “Utility Kings” and not “Show Kings.” Show Kings have been bred specifically for showing without attention to utilitarian purposes, while the utility Kings are used strictly for squab production.

For information on any of the mentioned breeds, Breed Clubs, Breeders—local and abroad—or just pigeon info in general, contact the National Pigeon Association (NPA).

As you see, even in this limited sampling, there’s a special pigeon out there for every taste.  And as many different things to do with them!

Now for part two…

Obtaining Some Pigeons

Internet:  Online classifieds such as Craigslist and E-bay often prove fruitful destinations in which to search.  But buyer beware, there will be mostly low quality options.  There are many other pigeon-specific sites with pigeons for sale, but my favorite is:http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/f8/ and look on Facebook for many classified groups that are most excellent.

Local:  A call to a club or association (such as the NPA referenced above), and they will be able to give you the contact information to any breeders nearby (or abroad if you care to have the birds shipped).  People do ship pigeons, but of course, this is another expense.  However, it is often necessary if you desire excellent birds for breeding or competing with, or rare breeds.

Some Flea Markets may have vendors with pigeons.  However don’t expect to find good quality there.  Local agricultural papers may also have ads selling pigeons.  And probably the two best options of all, (1.) contact a Pigeon Club, either of the specific breed you wish to obtain, or an international and multi-breed club, (such as the NPA referenced above) who will direct you to breeders and provide information.  (2.) Attend one of the many Pigeon Shows held around the country, where you will sometimes find hundreds of birds available and be able to closely inspect the bird(s) in question and talk face-to-face with the owner.  The NPA would also be of help in locating nearby shows.

All the options above will have their pros and cons.  I wouldn’t suggest buying birds that you haven’t seen, either in person or in pictures.  Observing the birds in person is always best, you can handle and more closely inspect them, and are often able to watch them fly if they are for that intent.  Plus you can inspect the facilities.  Therefore, shows and local-pickups are always good options.

Although it can be a bit deceiving at times, you can usually get a good idea of who you’re buying from just by talking with them on the phone.  Ask lots of questions, and look for informed, intelligent answers coming from experience and “book-learning.”  How well do they manage their birds?  Do they know much about them?  Their breeds, their line and ancestry etc…  Most breeders who have good, up-to-date websites or are avid competitors will usually not disappoint you.

On the internet, many birds will be for sale on the pigeon-related forums.  You can then do a little searching on the seller’s history, birds, and knowledge by looking around on there.  Lastly, keep in mind that there are three major groups of pigeon keepers, which are easily distinguishable.

1.  Those breeders who are very serious about their birds, usually their long-time hobby, and when selling, they’re just looking to get rid of some extras that are still very good quality.  Many will even gift birds to young fanciers just coming into pigeon-keeping.

2.  Those breeders who are in it as a money-making venue.  Many will have decent-enough birds, but they are usually those who breed meat-birds or do “White-Dove Releases”.  Others, often just back-yard breeders (though back-yard breeders are not the problem!) trying to make a quick buck, will often disappoint you.

3.  People who have some pigeons just to have them around and are either getting rid of them or have been letting them breed and are now overwhelmed and need to downsize.  If you’re serious about competing, breeding, or just getting a solid start, then these may not be the best option.

A few quick tips for keep and integrating your new birds safely into their home.

I’m sure it’s a known “given” that you should have the living quarters, with food and water, all set up and ready before the special, permanent-guests arrive.  You may wish to review my previous article, referred to above, for more info on that.  Going on, there’s nothing very special that needs doing, especially if the birds are a show breed, or any not intended to be flown.  Some electrolytes and vitamins in the water may help them while getting settled in, but it’s not a necessity if they have good quality feed and good, clean water.  The less disturbance and stress during the beginning, the better; so hold off on the taming and petting attempts for a little while.  The slightly more complicated processes consist with flying breeds.

As stated in the beginning, Homers have a very well developed homing ability, so if you attain any adult birds that have been previously flown, then they will not be able to be let out to fly at your place without fear of them heading back to their original home.  You want birds that have just come out of the nest.  In the latter case, the birds should not be familiar, from the air at least, with their previous home, and will “imprint” on your loft.  If you wish to attain proven, flown adults, you should just breed them and then fly their young.

Some Highfliers are said to have a fairly developed homing instinct—not nearly as good as a Homer’s, though—but good enough that they may attempt to fly back home.  Talk with the breeder as they’ll be able to give you more specific details on their birds.  If you are worried about this, then I suggest you simply extend the holding-time that I will recommend below.

For other flying breeds, and the two mentioned above (with the implied exception of adult-bought Homers), you will want to proceed to fly them in roughly the following manner:

After your birds have had a chance to settle down, and have gotten used to you and know you as care-taker, you will commence some simple training; which simply consists of teaching your pigeons to respond to a “feed-call.”  That is, a consistent sound or word used in conjunction with feeding time.   Once they are responding very well to the feed-call, and if it has already been about two weeks’ time that your birds have been in their new loft, you will open the door for them to exit from, and either let them come out on their own, or call them out to some feed.  Don’t let them get more than a taste if any.   You’ll then call them right back into the loft with the feed.  Sometimes they get spooked while outside, this is just part of the process, wait a bit and try calling them again.  Sometimes they won’t want to exit, don’t scare them out!  They will eventually venture out, be patient.  It’s best to have not fed your birds for a few hours prior to training, that way they are ready to eat and very responsive.  Continue this training until you are confident and have your birds cooperating perfectly.  When this is attained, and the birds have been regularly flying for longer amounts of time, you can then start taking your Homers away from home and letting them fly back.  Other breeds (and Homers not being used for “homing”) can just be flown for fun or trained if rollers.  Training your rollers can take up a whole book, however, so that for another time.  But once you get them up and flying, they often do a lot of their training themselves, just through experience and when those genes start kicking in.

I hope this was of help to many of you desiring more information on wonderful pigeons.  Despite many aspects seeming complicated, pigeons are very easy and adaptable animals, personalize your own care/training regime and I bet it will work out just fine.  The many breeds available can also be daunting, but remember, they indeed are all just pigeons; I had to learn that I didn’t need and couldn’t use “one of each!”  If you know what you want to use them for, it makes things a whole lot easier, so focus on that first.

Best of luck to you with all your pigeon-endeavors; if I could be of any assistance to you on your pigeon-journey, please don’t hesitate to contact me at rmanitvrs@gmail.com.

Backyard Bird Feeding on the Homestead

Peafowl: Plumage and Personality

The post Show, Sport, or Squab: Choosing a Pigeon Breed for the Homestead appeared first on Homestead.org.

The Rock Pigeon was first introduced into eastern North America in the early 17th century by colonists who brought them along by ship, mainly as a source of fresh food, and they eventually became feral on the continent from these colonial source points.  They have since been seized by many hobbyist and, in certain varieties, been greatly changed from their original form into even more beautiful and useful creatures.

I truly believe that our modern day decedents of Columba livia (rock dove/pigeon) are some of the all-time greatest game-bird species, and yet seemingly, they have been overlooked by most poultry and game-bird enthusiasts.  Consider the following attributes which the pigeon masterfully displays: minimal space requirements, extremely simple housing needs, simple and easy to feed, can be allowed to free-range or be kept in total confinement, producer of delicious meat, raises its young up until butchering time (no need to use incubators and brooders), fun and entertaining, intelligent and beautiful, as well as being healthy and hardy.  That’s pretty good, huh?  I can think of a few other species that match these criteria, but I do find that many birds which are much more popular than the humble pigeon come far from reaching them.  I am left to sit and wonder why.

Requiring no specialized feed, the pigeon can thrive on anything from straight grains and legumes to pellets designed for chickens or turkeys.  Plus, you only need a square foot of space per bird (more is always better, of course), which means they take up a minimal amount of room.  The housing can be as simple or as elaborate as you wish.  Give them a recycled rabbit hutch or a loft that can hold a hundred birds with self-cleaning nests and they’ll be happy and healthy all the same, on solid flooring, or wire for optimal sanitation.  Even better, where city ordinances prohibit the keeping of other poultry, pigeons are most often legal.  So, you can enjoy some birds of your own whether you’re keeping them in a window-box, on a balcony, in the front yard, or amidst hundreds of acres.  Now that’s adaptable!

If kept as pets and ornamentals, or an additional source of meat on the homestead, the pigeon fits its place well and is not nearly as popular as it deserves to be.  Let’s look now at some more practical subjects.

There are many, many different sizes, shapes, and abilities which the various breeds of pigeons display.  From the very common homer which looks wild and returns home when released from hundreds of miles away, to flying rollers which perform somersaults in the air, to flightless birds that roll around on the ground.  There are birds that have feathered feet, crests gracing their heads, curly feathers, and some can blow up their crops like balloons and appear to stand on stilts.  Still others, like the Thief Pouters, are used to capture other pigeons.  Don’t forget about those which are specially bred to produce a delectable meal.

Pigeon Lingo

Here’s a little basic pigeon terminology: a male pigeon is called a cock, a female is called a hen and the babies are called squabs when in the nest, and when out of the nest but still being parent-cared, squeakers.  The building that a pigeon is kept in is commonly called a “loft” (which is usually a walk-in building with nests, roost, windows, etc.).  Though remember that, as already mentioned, they can happily live in almost anything that gives them suitable protection from the elements and predators.  

Breeding

Pigeons are very prolific!  Once mature, at about six months of age, they will find a mate, which they may stay with for life, and continually go on, nest after nest, unless disturbed.  If you live in an area where the weather gets very cold you will either need to provide special insulation pads designed to go in the nest, heat their enclosure, or keep the pigeons from nesting.  The reason being that the squabs will sometimes freeze in the nest after about the second week of life, when the parents stop sitting tight on them.  To stop from having squabs you can either separate your cocks and hens or put artificial eggs under the birds in place of their own eggs.  

The breeding cycle tends to proceed in the following manner.  First of all, pigeons only lay to incubate.  They lay an egg and approximately 12-24 hours afterward they will lay another egg and then proceed to incubate.  The incubation process, which is shared by both parents, elapses about 18 days.  When the squabs hatch they will be constantly covered by one of the parents until about two weeks of age, then the parents tend to no longer cover the babies, but will continue to feed and care for them.  

The squabs are fed a special “milk” secretion that the parent pigeons produce in their crop and regurgitate for them.  The parents eventually switch to regurgitating seeds (or whatever other feed you’re giving them) as the squabs age.

At roughly four weeks of age the pigeons are old enough to be put by themselves or in a pen with other young birds.  Be sure to check that they are eating and drinking fine out of the feeders and water containers before and after separating them.  You may even want to dip their beaks into the water to familiarize them.  Don’t just assume, make sure that they know where the feed and water is.  You will want to have it on the floor for the young birds, and not up on a shelf as is commonly done for adults.  Four weeks of age is also the approximate time when they are butchered if that’s what you wish to do.  A better indicator is generally when the pin feathers under the wing have just opened and developed.  If the pigeons haven’t laid another set of eggs by this time then they will do it not long after separating them from their young.  And the cycle just goes round and round, often year-round if you don’t interfere.

Note on nests:  a double nestbox is recommended because of the pigeons’ tendency to lay another set of eggs while they have young that they’re caring for still in the nest.  All this is, is a nest box divided in two across the middle (in a manner that the pigeons can see and jump across the divider) to keep the present squabs and new eggs separated. 

They should ideally have a nest-bowl on each side of the nestbox.  The bowl should be round and large enough for them to sit inside comfortably.  Make sure it is secured as not to tip over when the pigeons stand on the rim.  The nest-bowl helps keep the eggs from rolling around and, if it’s the right size for your birds, improves nest cleanliness as they will actually defecate on the outside because they stand a little and “blast.”  You’ll want their tails out of the nest bowl when they are sitting in it as an indicator that it will work as so.  They’ll also need some nesting substrate in the nest.  This could just be some of the bedding off of the floor or sand, with a dusting of Sevins Dust or similar insecticide.  They do build nests, although they are usually quite flimsy.  Provide them with some pine needles, straw, or other similar, readily accessible material for this behavior.

You should be aware that pigeons are somewhat territorial in that they (a pair, or just a single bird) will claim an entire nestbox and/or roost for themselves, keep this in mind when “furnishing” their pen or loft and determining the number of nests to accommodate.

Some other points of interest that you should note are as follows:

Sun: pigeons love to bask in the sun.  They should have as much exposure to it as possible every day; it really helps them to stay healthier and happier.  You should pay special attention to this when building/situating their living quarters. 

Bathing: pigeons also love to have a water bath.  Even though it’s not a necessity and they can live perfectly well without it, allowing them to do so really does help them stay healthier and happier.  Just give them a shallow, open container of water that they can’t tip over and they’ll jump in when they want to and start splashing around.  DO NOT do this inside a pen or loft unless the floor of the pen is wire. One of the most important things in sustaining their health and reducing the chances of disease is to keep the living quarters DRY.  Also remember to change this water often or remove the bathing pan when they’re done, otherwise they will drink the dirty water.

I recommend adding an all-wire pen to the pen/loft that your birds will inhabit.  However, it may prove to be less important depending on the style of housing you use.  It should have a southerly exposure.  It allows them fresh air and unlimited sun when they want it, as well as a place to put the bath pan for their bathing sessions.  It only has to be about two feet square and can just be attached to the outside of a window.

Grit: pigeons also need grit like other poultry and game birds to help them digest their food.  Red pigeon-grit is best as it provides grit as well as being mixed with minerals and vitamins and has some other supplements.  If not available, and you are feeding a pelleted feed (or using another mineral/vitamin supplement with an all-grain feed), then regular poultry or game-bird grit will suffice.  The addition of crushed oyster shells is beneficial for breeding hens if using an all-grain feed (if you have access to pigeon specific products then there are many other options as well).  See more below on feeding.

Feed/Vitamins: boy, can this get very complicated depending on whose opinion you take and how involved you want to get.  Pigeons constitute a big money sport for some people, thus facilitating special study and specialization here.  But I am going to keep it as simple as I know how.  Generally, when raising squabs you may wish to raise the protein level of your feed up to about 20%.  As a guide, a pigeon’s diet should consist of about 13%-16% protein, possibly the most important part of the diet.  Also very important, it should be very high in carbohydrates.  Lastly, it should be fairly low in fat, about 4%, and very low in fiber, which they do not utilize very well and don’t need much of, if any at all.  There are three simple ways of feeding pigeons that I will list here.  

1.  Feed a balanced, pelleted, pigeon feed which will provide just about everything your birds need, and only optionally, some regular poultry grit or the special red pigeon-grit.

2.  Feeding an all-grain pigeon feed and red pigeon-grit, or otherwise regular grit with a vitamin & mineral supplement that is sprinkled on their feed or added to their water.

3.  For method number three, you use what you have locally available, try not to spend a fortune, and try not to have to order things in.  All that, while still keeping the birds in excellent condition.  For me, this usually consists of feeding a 16% layer pellet, premium scratch grains, and/or wild bird seed, and basic grit.

I find both the pelleted and all-grain pigeon feeds to usually be quite expensive, especially considering I want to only use organic, or at least, non-GMO feeds.  In the case of the all-grain feed, not only do the pigeons waste TONS of it, but you NEED red pigeon-grit.  Which is another expense and, unless you get lucky, you’ll most likely have to order it.  Another option is for you to substitute the red pigeon-grit with a vitamin/mineral supplement, which you may be able to find at a pet shop or feed store, and then just use regular grit.  But again, it’s one more expense and another product to mess with.  You may also possibly find a mineral/vitamin supplemented grit at a pet shop, similar to the red pigeon-grit but used for caged birds, though it’ll get expensive.

For the pelleted pigeon feed all you will additionally need, and just preferably, is some regular grit to help them digest any seeds/grains that you may give them, or anything else they may eat that isn’t water soluble.

I would prefer to use the pelleted pigeon feed, but don’t have it available to me, so I use my personalized feeding method.  The premium, 5-grain, scratch feed or bird seed is not a necessity, just something I really like to add in their diet for variety.  The grit would be unnecessary if I wasn’t feeding grains/seeds.  The poultry pellets I’m feeding also provide a fairly balanced ration of minerals and vitamins, so I’m fairly well covered there, too, although I don’t object to some supplements provided additionally.

Note: the products that I’m using and recommending (layer pellets, seeds/grains, grit) are mainly because of the difficulty for me to find products in my area for birds other than common poultry such as chickens.  You may be able to find pigeon products in your area or be willing to order them.  You have to figure out what is the best feeding method for you, using that which you can acquire from local farm/feed stores.  I use what I have available, and find suitable substitutes for the things that I don’t.

Worming: pigeons should ideally be wormed at least twice a year against internal and external parasites.  There are many products available and I use Ivomectin cattle wormer, 1% tincture, as it is readily available for me.  It is amongst the safest wormers and is also used to treat both internal and external parasites, which is a plus.  Be sure to do your research before going with any one and make sure you know the proper administration method(s) and dosage(s).  Per bird, I give three drops, down the throat, out of a syringe and I repeat in 21 days.  You can also mix some wormers in their water.  I also recommend dusting them with Sevins Dust or similar product.  

Diseases: pigeons are susceptible to many common diseases such as canker and coccidiosis, but with proper selection, breeding, and good management they should not suffer from them at all.  I like to regularly add apple cider vinegar or crushed garlic and other herbs to their feed.  Bleach in their water is a very effective means of preventing the spread of disease, I’ve used ½ ounce of 8% bleach per gallon of water.  It also keeps the green gunk and other “nasties” from developing.  These are easy, effective and inexpensive ways to keep your pigeons strong and in good health.  There are many products available for pigeons and you should check out the references provided below.

Breeds: be aware that not all breeds are equal in their abilities.  Some show-breeds should not be let out to fly; other breeds, which have been bred for extreme length of feathering around the head, very short beaks, or huge globes, cannot raise their own babies and you need to use foster parents.  Some breeds just aren’t very good parents, period, even if able to raise their young.  I recommend the plainer, less extreme and ornamented breeds to beginners. 

Sexing: among the most common question that arises with new pigeon owners is how to sex their birds.  This is one of the drawbacks of the pigeon.  Male and female pigeons often look just alike, but there are a few ways to help you tell them apart.  Cocks are often much louder than the hens and their voice can even sound deeper on some birds.  They will likely coo and grunt more and be more aggressive than the hens.  They will spread out their tail feathers while prancing around, bowing and cooing; they will also puff up their “chest” (it’s really their crop) a little while doing this display.  Cocks may also be a little larger than hens with bolder, more masculine features, and sometimes more sheen to the neck feathers.  But this is all better noticed when comparing known hens and cocks side by side. 

Another way to help tell is to feel the two bones that are under the bird and form a V-shape toward its rear end. Hens will have a larger gap at the “valley” of the V to accommodate egg-laying, while on the males they will be closer together and sometimes even touch.

None of these methods are sure-fire. and age, condition, and individuality will all play a part in how accurate they are.  Observing them pairing up and breeding is the most accurate method.

I hope we’ve come to see how the rock pigeon is more than just the feral pest we see flying around the barn and scavenging about the city, and that they can be a valuable addition to just about any home.  Whether it’s for meat, pets, ornamentals, or just a hobby, you’re sure to be pleased with this feathered jewel.  They may just become your new favorite bird in the yard!

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