1. Self-Heal (Prunella vulgaris)

My all-time favorite herb that grows on the land I farm is Self-Heal. Unassuming and low to the ground, I’ve never had a visitor who recognized the name. Yet I can think of nothing easier to grow or which yields such a harvest in exchange for so little effort. For beginner homesteaders looking for a reliable plant or food crop that they won’t kill, my #1 answer is self-heal. After other herbs and flowers have departed for the dormant season, I can always trust the self-heal to keep producing. Self-heal often keeps right on thriving in the summer if I forget to water it, and I can attest it won’t hesitate to grow under autumn leaves that block the sun if they haven’t been moved at the start of the growing season.

Self-heal has faced some opprobrium for being invasive, and many online correspondents caution against self-heal for its reported tendency to spread and become encroaching, as members of the mint family are wont to do. This has never been my experience. My self-heal grows alongside its neighbors without ever choking them, and while enhancing the soil for surrounding plant life. It’s true that my self-heal has over time, become a larger bunch than the small starter I originally planted, and it has spread out somewhat, but isn’t that what you want a healthy plant to do after years when it’s providing such consistent turnover for you? It is now about half a square foot, but it doesn’t seem to be spreading at such a rapid rate that I would be concerned that the rest of my garden doesn’t have a chance.

Self-heal (sometimes called heal-all) will grow easily from a cutting and is a great way to experiment with the art of getting new cuttings to root to eventually sell or share. Self-heal is an ideal plant to learn through for would-be homesteaders because it yields a dependable number of greens and can be used to grasp the basics of propagation.

When people do know about self-heal, it’s typically due to its role in immune support. People grow self-heal for tea and healing poultices to improve challenges like psoriasis and to make use of the way self-heal soothes mucous membranes, supports lymph health, and is antiviral. Self-heal ameliorates a variety of conditions and has been used for hundreds of years by different cultures for vastly different treatments. It is full of antioxidants and is anti-inflammatory, and the rosmarinic acid and rutin protect against cell damage and are neuroprotective.

All of this is fascinating, but I have learned in my time with self-heal that it can be used to great effect as a trusty salad green. The young, tender leaves in raw salad or blended into smoothies, as you would spinach, can offer more plentiful advantages per leaf than traditional greens.

This information can be useful for families trying to get the most vitamins and minerals into their children per bite. Self-heal leaves offer a broader array of vitamins and compounds than your typical lettuce or spinach leaf. Self-heal provides far more nutrient-dense vitality than, for example, lettuce, because lettuce is—for better or for worse—predominantly water.

Self-heal is rich in trace elements, which protect your bones and teeth and keep more children and adults free from cellular damage, as well as cognitive and mood decline and metabolic dysfunction. Self-heal is a proficient provider of vitamin C, which enables you to directly absorb the iron it offers you. Self-heal provides vitamins A, C, and K along with multiple types of vitamin B, as well as phytochemicals, which promote endothelial function, and carotenoids, which boost vision and skin health in humans.

Self-heal isn’t just outstanding in salads but fantastic for adding into soups and roasts as a traditional “pot herb” you can toss in with other cooking vegetables. The flavor is described by some as bitter, but I have always found it somewhat sweet and agreeable to the palate, especially when combined with salad or stew ingredients.

If I intended to start just one food crop to inaugurate a growing journey, I would undoubtedly choose self-heal. Nothing offers as much nutritional support and harvestable abundance for so little time and effort. Self-Heal is the number one ingredient for self-sufficiency and personal production success as a food farmer that I can recommend, and I wish for you all the self-betterment it can provide.

2. Hummingbird Mint (Agastache cana)

Another botanical friend I could never imagine my gardens without is the beautiful and steadfast Hummingbird Mint. Also called Giant Hyssop, this little plant brings many of the assets beginner homesteaders are thirsty for: lovely color, pollinator attraction, a sturdy perennial that comes back every year without being asked or prodded, a gorgeous cut flower that makes a vibrant and textural addition to any bouquet, and an edible crop that you can experiment with while you’re getting your feet wet farming something useful.

Hummingbird mint in any salad gives it an instant culinary upgrade, while hummingbird mint dried as tea leaves gives your nightly hot drink a distinctive liveliness without caffeine. One reason this plant is a piece of cake to grow and keep around is that the aromatic oils in Hummingbird mint are an automatic deer and rabbit deterrent. Unlike a lot of fruits and flowers appealing to new homesteaders in search of a first plant to try, hummingbird mint has its own built-in system to ward off common pests and browsers. Despite its name, this is a vertical specimen of mint that grows straight up and does not spread aggressively like other mints. It’s extraordinarily drought-tolerant and will thrive in the hot southern sun without regular watering, which is one of the things that makes it uncomplicated for beginners. This is a plant that can be forgiving with newcomers.

Young hummingbird mint leaves are tremendous as garnish, and I love to throw them fresh into my mouth. It’s one of the closest leaves to candy. While not expressly sweet, it’s sweet adjacent with citrus, mint and licorice notes. It’s also a novel addition to a summer salad, especially when paired with strawberries or mandarin oranges and poppy seed dressing on a bed of other greens. This is another leaf, like self-heal, which you don’t hear about much as a salad crop but is charming when put to use that way.

Hummingbird mint requires precious little upkeep after its initial planting, and it’s a species that makes an excellent marketable product. Growing hummingbird mint is remarkably simple and yields many leaves per stalk to be dried and made into a unique tea with a memorable flavor profile. It especially makes the perfect iced tea and would be the ideal ingredient for a secret recipe iced tea blend to pass on to your grandchildren or impress your neighbors.

Hummingbird mint has something that nothing else has, as far as smell and taste. A zing that is not sour, and a spice that does not burn, but brings the right amount of pizzazz. The taste of hummingbird mint is not only welcoming as iced tea should be, but also imparts vivacity. I can always count on a bountiful yield of hummingbird mint leaves to dry well and make the perfect gift packaged up for Christmas and Mother’s Days or slipped into a thank you card.

It also piques the interest as a crowd pleaser if you’re looking to sell a tea crop. It’s not your run-of-the-mill green or mint tea, but something all its own. It’s a great starter project if you’re looking to begin with just a couple of plants to yield a crop from, to drink a tea every night that you grew yourself or to start a gardening project with kids who will get excited about caring for a plant with such aromatic properties that they can collect, dry and give as gifts themselves.

Hummingbird mint isn’t only an efficient and low-maintenance pollinator attractor but also one of the most delectable herbs for making iced tea. Hummingbird mint has a rustic, porch-swing aroma that lends itself well to making herbal tea gifts to give or sell year-round. It can quickly become your signature flavor or signature scent and set your gardens apart from the start. The complex aroma is compared to anise by some and fennel or blood orange by others. It may be that hummingbird mint smells a little different to and invokes different memory stimuli for everyone. It could also be a divine and novel addition to homemade potpourri blends or sachets to freshen drawers. The gift ideas are endless when it comes to utilizing these abundant leaves!

3. Mock Strawberry (Potentilla indica, formerly Duchesnea indica and referred to as such in much medical research.)

Mock strawberry is something I’ve never plante. Unlike the others on the list, which I purchased from Celtic Frost Herb Farm (I would highly recommend ordering from them on Etsy if you don’t live near enough to buy from them in person. They have the best quality plants!)

Mock strawberry grows wild around the southeastern United States, and most people I know consider it a useless weed. It’s often cited as bearing inedible berries because the flavor of the fruit isn’t as sweet as the strawberries we are all used to. I’ve never been one to throw out a profuse producer of greenery, and after doing some research, I found out the berries aren’t inedible at all, just not everyone’s taste. Big difference!

Some sources cite them as dry, but I’ve eaten them for years and have found they are only dry after sitting too long, as any other berry would be. There is no inherent dryness to them, and, when in season, I find them perfectly juicy.

If you’re like me and mock strawberries have taken over as ground cover in parts of your yard, I would suggest putting them to good use, as they often thrive on their own with no maintenance, in rain or shine, sun or shade.

The leaves can be harvested for tea throughout most of the year, while the fruit is amply pleasurable in jam-making and for pies, as well as cheerful, colorful, often free and safe/edible cake-topper decor. The berries offer a variety of health perks, such as insoluble fiber, and if they are growing free of cost on your property, you might as well throw them in your daily smoothie. Many a seasonal crop of mock strawberries I’ve actually found more flavorful than frozen strawberries from the supermarket as a smoothie or milkshake ingredient.

You can easily tell mock strawberry from wild strawberry (Fragaria virginiana), or domestic strawberry, because it’s set apart by 5-petaled, bright yellow flowers that greatly resemble buttercups, versus the white flowers of Fragaria virginiana. When the fruit comes in, the berries are a round shape rather than the heart-shaped strawberries most of us are familiar with.

While I regularly consume, freeze, and use the fruit, my favorite thing about mock strawberry is the leaves. Studies have shown that strawberry leaves across all varieties have higher bioactive phytochemical content than the fruit. The vegetative part of the plant, typically discarded, represents a large source of underutilized bioactive biomass, according to a 2023 study published with the National Library of Medicine.

Mock strawberry leaves provide antioxidant polyphenols like quercetin, kaempferol, and tannins, which many people today spend money to supplement with when they could be using the leaves of the mock strawberry growing behind their homes. They have more significant benefits than the fruit, as well as being more prolific than the fruit and easier to come by. Mock strawberry leaves provide antioxidants which fight oxidative stress, limit inflammation, and reduce the risk of chronic diseases in humans.

In addition, several studies show promising anti-cancer activity in mock strawberry leaves. They have been studied for their use in stopping cancer multiplication and inducing programmed cell death. A study from May 2019 from the Journal of Food Biochemistry Volume 43, Issue 7, by Bolin Xiang and Qiyi He, took neutral polysaccharide from D. indica and found the mock strawberry neutral polysaccharide to exhibit “significant antioxidant and antitumor activity.”

With so much possible internal use to humanity when used as a tea, not to mention a hearty, delicious taste when boiled, and a crop that costs nothing for many people, there seems to be no reason not to make use of this darling specimen as a budding homesteader.

You could also try making a healthy and tasty tea blend to drink, sell, and gift by growing all three and combining the leaves of these unusual and easy-to-grow plants. Enjoy making these ingredients your own, and happy gathering!

The post Three Lesser-known Starter Crops for the Homestead appeared first on Homestead.org.

Untruth #1:  Rent the Rototiller and simply push it along, smiling and humming a settlers’ tune as it turns your land into premium, glorious, farmland.

Truth:  Pay someone with a real tractor to till up your garden plot.  If you want to experience the effects of Rototilling on your body, have someone work you over with a sack of wet sand, then jump off of your garage roof.  Naked.  Into brambles.

Untruth #2:  Your veggies will look just like the picture in the catalog.

Truth:  Actually, they WILL look just like the pictures, they just don’t tell you that the pictures are life-size.

Untruth #3:  Newspaper makes excellent mulch.

Truth:  Newspaper looks like litter in your garden, because it IS litter in your garden.  The best mulch I ever used was stall innards from the goat pen, wheelbarrowed directly from pen to garden and dumped between rows.  If you have no goats (I can help you with that), the thick black plastic the garden store sells is a good alternative that keeps out weeds and doesn’t look awful, although some folks, like my publisher, are opposed to putting anything in the garden that won’t break down rapidly.  Last year’s hay works well too, the flakes are about the right size to fit between rows.

Untruth #4:  Fish heads make excellent fertilizer.

Truth:  Although legend has it that the Native Americans planted a fish head with every kernel of corn, the reality is that this is a myth perpetuated by generations of skunks looking for an easy meal.

Untruth #5:  Natural pest control works just as well as chemical pest control.

Truth:  There’s nothing like a good dose of poison to kill bugs.  Since my children had a habit of eating straight from the garden, I always go chemical-free, and assume the “one for me, two for nature” attitude.  However, using beer for slugs does work—taken internally by the gardener in a large enough dose to obliterate any thought of slugs.

Untruth #6:  Mothballs/aluminum pie tins/sweaty shirts/Tabasco sauce/gunshots will deter mammalian pests.

Truth:  The instant your sweet corn is ready to pick, some sort of silent Corn Alarm sounds, and nothing will keep the raccoons away.  I witnessed the mid-day destruction of my sweet corn from 20 feet away, yelling, waving my arms, jumping up and down, and lobbing every lift-able object at the masked darlings.  They totally ignored the Crazy Woman at the edge of the garden (you would think rabies would’ve been a concern, I was certainly foaming at the mouth), bent a stalk, opened an ear, took 3 or 4 bites, then moved onto the next one, effectively ruining the entire crop and breaking my heart simultaneously.  There is nothing on earth as delicious as homegrown sweet corn, harvested and cooked within minutes, slathered with real butter.  If I ever have the courage to plant sweet corn again, I will fence that area and turn a big doggie loose in it two weeks before harvest.

Untruth #7:  Throwing netting over your fruit trees will keep the birds from eating your ripening fruit.

Truth:  The birds actually love this one, as they hop up into your branches and can eat all day long without worrying about getting eaten themselves by a hawk.

Untruth #8:  The catalogs are full of thousands of different veggies, so you must plant all of them.

Truth:  Plant only what you will eat.  Also, learn what you can plant together.  I learned that if you plant cucumbers and gourds next to each other, you get mutants that are neither edible nor decorative, just disturbing.

Untruth #9:  If your children help in the garden, they will be proud to eat the Fruits of Their Labor.

Truth:  Kids are kids, and kids hate veggies.  This can also work against you when they name each tomato, and you are not allowed to eat them either.

Untruth #9 1/2:  Working together in the garden will enhance the sibling bond.

Truth:  One year, my daughter gave her little brother a radish, claiming it was a strawberry just to see the look on his face at the first bite.  He fell for it every time.  Yes.  Every time.  She is now in law school, and for years he harbored a grave suspicion of all food products.

Untruth #10:  You will save a bundle on your grocery bill by growing your own produce.

Truth:  After the tilling, purchasing, and planting, mulching, fertilizing, pest deterring, watering, harvesting, and putting up, you will be munching on $10 carrots.  My daughter did make a tidy sum one year growing and selling pumpkins.  We planted them among the rows of corn, and they did well.  This was in Wisconsin, where the Yankee raccoons are more civil than these Southern Rebel raccoons, and I could actually eat my own sweet corn and have enough left to freeze (sigh).

To New Gardeners planning a first garden, these veggies are easy to grow, and most likely to be eaten: green beans (get the bush type unless you want to build poles), tomatoes (get cages), squashes, cucumbers, corn (needs lots of room, and a razor wire fence for protection).

Beware of zucchini.  If you must grow it, buy a packet of seeds, plant one, and throw the rest away, better yet, burn them.  You will still be slipping surplus zucchinis into strangers’ purses just to get rid of the damn things.

This year, we will again plant a garden, for Hope springs eternal; there is no finer workout than an hour or two in the garden.  Country life just doesn’t seem complete without those precious gems from your own garden: the one tomato that doesn’t have rust, the one strawberry that doesn’t have a resident slug, squash yellow as sunshine, corn sweet as candy.

Hand me that seed catalog, would you?  I hear the call of the land.  (Sounds suspiciously like giggling raccoons…)

The post Black Thumb! Helpful Hints for the Cultivationally Challenged appeared first on Homestead.org.

A high tunnel, also called a hoop house or hoop tunnel, is a semi-permanent structure that extends the growing season, making it possible to start spring planting at least four weeks earlier and extend it into the fall at least six weeks later.  If you cover your soil with plastic you can start planting even earlier.  On a sunny day, the daytime temperatures inside a high tunnel are 30-50 degrees warmer than the outside temperature.  This warmth rapidly increases seed germination and plant growth.  It also allows you to harvest cold-hardy vegetables throughout winter, making year-round gardening possible.

High tunnels are available online as a kit and are occasionally offered in the form of farm grants at your local extension office. You can also recruit a few friends or family members, download plans off the internet and build one yourself.  Choose a level site to place the high tunnel and position the structure so that the prevailing winds will blow through the roll-up sides, otherwise your plants will not receive adequate ventilation.

There are several styles of high tunnels to choose from but a tall-sided tunnel will give you more room to work and will ensure proper ventilation.  If you live in an area that receives a lot of snow, choose a tunnel with a peak to help avoid collapse during a heavy snowfall.

It’s best to choose a high tunnel with sides that can easily be rolled up during warm days to prevent your plants from overheating and steaming.  If your area experiences extreme cold for extended periods, consider adding small, portable heaters that can be turned on during the coldest weather.One of the most important things to consider when deciding on a high tunnel is how you will deliver water to your plants.  They will not receive any rainfall, so you will need to decide on an irrigation system.  The ideal situation is to capture any rainfall that runs off the high tunnel and use that for irrigation.  Research is still being done on how to do this efficiently, so it is not available in most kits.  Drip irrigation is the system that is recommended and it has several advantages.  First, there is less water waste as the water is delivered directly to the root zone.  Second, because a drip irrigation system sends water directly to the roots, the probability of certain fungal diseases and water damage to crops is lessened.  Third, a drip system allows you to apply fertilizer to your crops by injecting it directly into the system on an as-needed basis.

The most obvious benefit of gardening in a high tunnel is the season extension, but that is not the only benefit to consider.  High tunnels offer protection from extreme weather events such as strong winds, heavy rain, snow, and drought.  They also protect young and tender plants from excessive heat and sun-scald.

High tunnels also offer protection from pests, diseases, and weeds.  You can use row covers for additional pest protection or, for even more pest protection, install insect screens along the sidewalls and doorways.  The best control for disease prevention is always good sanitation, along with other good gardening practices such as monitoring crops and crop rotation.  Weeds can be combated by placing a thick layer of straw between the rows and around individual plants.

The protection high tunnels offer can present a dilemma when it comes to pollinating your plants.  Some plants are self-fertile, but even they will yield more produce if they are exposed to pollinators.  Pollinators will be able to enter the high tunnel when the sidewalls are rolled up if you have not installed an insect screen.  To attract pollinators, plant a flowering cover crop around the structure.  If so inclined, you can also incorporate beehives around the structure.

As with any homestead project, it is important to do everything you can to make the most of your high tunnel.  An important consideration is how you are going to optimize the space inside and around the high tunnel.  It will be impossible to maintain continuous production without maximizing your space through succession planting and intercropping.

There are three ways to practice succession planting.  Productivity will explode simply by practicing these techniques.  The first succession planting technique is the most basic.  Immediately plant a different crop after a crop is harvested.  This is most often done after you harvest a cool-season crop and follow it with a warm-season crop.  Second, plant the same crop at times intervals so they mature at different times.  This is very successful with quick crops such as radishes, carrots, and greens.  Finally, plant varieties of the same crop with different maturity dates at the same time to extend the harvest.  For example, plant early, mid- and late maturing tomatoes to harvest from early June to late September.

Intercropping is simply planting smaller crops under larger ones.  Root crops can be planted around mid-sized crops such as kale and Swiss chard.  Leafy greens, dwarf pepper plants, and herbs can be planted around larger crops such as broccoli and tomatoes.  Not only will this increase the variety and yield from your garden, but also taller plants offer smaller plants heat protection and it is a great way to practice companion planting.

Another way to maximize the growth potential of your high tunnel is to incorporate vertical gardening.  If you are only using the ground level, you are missing out on a lot of space.  Again, you can buy vertical gardening kits that you can add to the tunnel, or save some money and build your own.  Vertical gardening is becoming increasingly popular and there are plenty of resources you can draw from.

If you choose not to add a vertical aspect to your high tunnel, consider adding an area for seed germination.  The warmer temperature inside the high tunnel makes the germination process quicker and if you are practicing succession planting, you always need to have plants ready to put in the ground.

Although installing a high tunnel may seem like a great deal of work and expense, the benefits are immeasurable to the homesteader who is counting on the income from their garden.  With the longer growing season, faster growth and higher productivity, gardening in a high tunnel leads to a better product and a higher yield.  The ability to be first to the market with farm-fresh produce makes a good impression on customers and keeps them coming back.  Out of season produce commands a premium price and allows customers to have the produce they want from a local grower.Just because you can grow almost anything in a high tunnel, that doesn’t necessarily mean you should.  Pay attention to what is being offered at your local farmers’ market.  Ask customers what they would like.  Visit local restaurants and introduce yourself to the chef. Interest in local food is high and the majority of people want to support you.  It’s a tricky line to offer what customers want while differentiating yourself.  Yes, tomatoes and crookneck squash are popular, but if twenty vendors are selling tomatoes and squash, how is a customer supposed to support every vendor?  Offer different varieties of popular choices and include two or three unusual vegetables. Let nothing go to waste.  If something is not selling, create a value-added product such as a relish, pickle or chutney, and don’t plant it next year.  If you keep good production and market records, the decision about what to plant each year becomes easier.

If you are ready to start a CSA project on your homestead, a high tunnel is the way to go.  Operating a CSA takes a lot of the financial stress out of farming, as the crops are pre-sold and there are no market variables.  You know exactly how much of what you need to plant and when you need to harvest it.  Because of the protection offered by a high tunnel and your ability to control the water and ventilation, a CSA operated out of a high tunnel is much less risky than accepting money for crops you’re growing out in a field, especially for the small farmer.  Always plant more than you pre-sell, and plant one or two surprising items that are added into the boxes for interest.  Start small, five or ten shares, if this is the first CSA you have participated in.

High tunnel gardening is an effective way to grow a wide variety of vegetables, fruits, and flowers throughout the entire year. Whether you are selling your produce as a main source of income or wanting to feed your friends and family food you feel good about, a high tunnel is a worthwhile investment.

The post High Tunnel On The Homestead appeared first on Homestead.org.

What is Aquaponics and How Does it Work?

Aquaponics is the cultivation of crops and fish in a controlled recirculating environment. In aquaponics, fish are kept in fish tanks while the plants are grown hydroponically (without soil). Fish wastes provide the nutrients needed by the plants to thrive in the system.

They pump the water from the fish tank into the grow bed or grow pipes. Plant roots absorb the nutrients in the water, and in return, plant roots clean the water before flowing back to the fish tank, where the cycle will begin again.

Why is Aquaponics the Best Gardening Method for Homesteading?

Aquaponics is well-suited to homesteading because it is a recirculating agricultural system that can be built indoors, in a greenhouse, or in your backyard. Whatever your gardening needs, there are several types of aquaponics systems you can choose from.

Aquaponics is a budget-friendly investment that is popular with DIYers who like using recyclable food-grade materials. This gardening method also allows aquaponics growers to use solar panels for an independent off-the-grid aquaponics system.

Here are some reasons why aquaponics is one of the best gardening methods for homesteading:

• Aquaponics will meet your dietary needs. The fish and plants will fulfill your needs while embracing a healthy lifestyle.
• Aquaponics does not use harmful chemicals and pesticides because it might harm the fish in the system.
• There is no waste in aquaponics. Decayed organisms and other debris are recycled back to the system.
• Aquaponics uses 90% less water than traditional gardening.
• With aquaponics, you can grow food all year round.
• Plants grown in aquaponics grow three times faster than other gardening methods, allowing you to preserve more of your harvests.
• An aquaponics system is cost-effective and may provide you an additional source of income in the long run.
• Knowing you’re providing healthy and organic food to your family through a sustainable gardening method will give you personal satisfaction.

Types of Aquaponics System Designs

These are the most commonly used types of aquaponics designs for home growers:

Media Filled Bed

Media-filled beds are the simplest type of aquaponics design. In this system, the containers are filled with growing media (expanded clay or similar) into which the plants are planted. The water from the fish tank is then pumped, or flows via gravity, into the grow bed so that plants can absorb the nutrients. The grow media also serves as a filter to clean the water before it flows back to the fish tank. This system can be run either by a continuous flow of water over the growing media or by flooding and draining the grow bed using a siphon. Examples of media-filled beds are IBC tote and barrel aquaponics systems.

Nutrient Film Technique

The fish tank’s nutrient-rich water is pumped through the PVC pipes in a thin film in this system. The pipes have holes cut on the top in which the plants are grown by using small plastic cups to allow their roots to dangle in the flowing water at the bottom.

The roots then absorb the nutrients and purify the water, and since their roots are only submerged partially, it allows aeration as well. The clean water is pumped back into the fish tank. NFT is only suitable for growing plants and herbs that have a smaller root system.

Raft System

Also known as Deep Water Culture (DWC), the raft system uses a raft (polystyrene) to grow plants. These rafts float on top of the fish tanks or long channels. The rafts have well-placed holes in which plants are grown in net pots. This method is often used in large commercial aquaponics systems.

Hybrid Aquaponics System

The hybrid system combines the two or three main types of aquaponics designs into one system. The combination of a raft system and the media-filled bed aquaponics system is often used in this method.

The Necessary Components of an Aquaponics System

Main Components

1. Fish

A variety of fish grows well in an aquaponics system. For the success of your aquaponics system, choose fish that is easy to grow and disease resistant. You can select between ornamental fish or fish that you can use for food. Ornamental fish are koi and goldfish, while food varieties are tilapia, catfish, bass, and bluegill.

2. Plants

Growing plants for food is the main goal of an aquaponics system, so you must choose the right plants. Remember that you need to avoid planting nutrient-hungry plants like tomatoes, peppers, and other fruit-bearing plants until your system is fully established. Leafy greens, lettuce, and herbs are great for a new aquaponics system. You add nutrient-hungry plants to your garden later, when the system is fully established.

3. Bacteria

Bacteria convert fish waste into nutrients absorbed by the plants. Make sure that your system has enough surface area for the bacteria to grow.

Secondary Components

1. Fish Tank

The fish tank is an essential component of an aquaponics system as it serves as the home to your fish. Fish require specific conditions to survive and thrive, so you must choose your fish tank wisely. A round fish tank is recommended because it allows the water to circulate uniformly and transports solid wastes to the tank’s center through centripetal force.

2. Grow Bed

The grow beds are another important component of an aquaponics system. The grow beds will hold your plants and the water they need to grow healthy. Depending on your choice of aquaponics system designs, your grow bed can be PVC pipes, a floating raft, or a media bed.

3. Grow Media

Grow media is used to give support to the plants in the grow bed. It also acts as the place for the beneficial bacteria to colonize and convert ammonia into nitrates. The most common growing media used are clay pebbles, lava rock, and expanded shale.

4. Pipes

Pipes are needed to move the water from the fish tank to the grow bed. The recommended pipes to use in an aquaponics system are PVC pipes.

5. Water Pump

The water pump carries the nutrient-rich water from the fish tank to the plants. So choosing the right pump for your system size is important to get the performance that you want. For smaller systems, a submersible pump can work well. The submersible pump sits in the fish tank and works to pump water to the grow bed, creating turbulence, which helps increase the dissolved oxygen in the water.

6. Water Test Kits

Water test kits are essential for aquaponics systems to test the following water parameters: pH level, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. Too much ammonia and too high a pH level in the water can harm the fish in your fish tank, so you must monitor and control the ammonia and pH levels in your system.

Getting Started with an Aquaponics System

Interested in setting up a sustainable aquaponics garden now? Here are a few things to keep in mind if you decide to build an aquaponics system in your homestead:

• It is better to DIY your aquaponics system than buy a pre-made system. DIY aquaponics is easier than you think, although you need to purchase a checklist of materials such as a fish tank and pump. You might also use flow meters in your system. What’s excellent with DIYing your system is you can use recycled materials to lower your startup cost. If you’re a beginner in aquaponics and want to DIY your system, don’t worry, there are many free online resources available.
• You must cycle your new system first to establish the beneficial bacteria. Depending on your method of cycling, it can take several days. So you have to be patient and do regular water tests to check your pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates levels.
• Climate has a significant impact on the success of your aquaponics system. Aquaponics thrive in warmer climates, so if you live in a colder climate, you may have to set up your system indoors or use a greenhouse to grow food all year round.
• Choose plants and fish that are suitable for your location and climate.
• Have fun with your aquaponics system. Aquaponics is an interesting way to grow your food. Get the entire family involved so that you’ll all learn and appreciate the benefits of having a sustainable garden in your homestead.

Where to Set Up The Aquaponics System in Your Homestead?

One question you need to address in setting up your system is; where to put your tank and grow beds? The best location to set up your aquaponics system is in any south-facing space or a place with access to at least six hours of sunlight, near to a water and electrical source, and easily accessible. If you have a large space available in your homestead, it is best to use a greenhouse because it allows you to control the temperature inside, and your plants and fish are safe from any intruders.

However, if you live in the city and do not have large space available but want to try homesteading, you can use your basement, garage, or any space inside the house to set up your aquaponics system. Also, invest in a good-quality grow light since sunlight and heat are essential for both fish and plants.

Conclusion

Homesteading is not a piece of cake, but having a sustainable aquaponics system that can produce both fish and vegetables will make it easier. A mature aquaponics system can grow a lot of food very quickly, making it the best gardening method for homesteads. Having a sustainable way of growing your own food will allow you to live a self-sufficient lifestyle. All it takes is proper planning and effort.

The post Aquaponics: Why It’s the Best Gardening Method for Homesteading appeared first on Homestead.org.

The enzyme fertilizers work like magic, boosting harvests and helping produce a profusion of huge, show-quality blooms. Some gardeners have even reported that their long unfertile fruit trees suddenly started flowering and fruiting profusely after several applications of the remarkable enzymes. Additionally, enzyme fertilizer mixed with compost makes an excellent natural and very effective mixture for enriching depleted and poor soils. Enzymes can help with deterring pests, and even have some handy household uses.

How Enzyme Fertilizer Works

Enzymes are proteins that act as biocatalysts speeding up chemical reactions in cells. Some enzymes help break large molecules into smaller pieces while other enzymes help bind two molecules together to produce a new molecule. Enzymes are naturally present in the soil, excreted by bacteria, fungi, and other soil microbiomes. There they play a significant role in helping break down organic matter and making nutrients more available for plants to use. That way, they make the soil medium free from dead roots and other debris and increase the levels of NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). In order to do their job, enzymes require cofactors and coenzymes, which are derived from trace minerals and vitamins present in healthy soils and compost. By cleaning the soil from debris and adding lots of nutrients, enzymes remove the breeding ground for harmful bacteria and pathogens making plants disease free and vigorous, while the more readily available nutrients boost growth, harvests, and blooms.

Besides boosting enzymatic activity in the soil, the ingredients used in the enzyme fertilizer add natural oils and compounds that have antifungal and pest repelling properties. Therefore, the diluted fertilizer can also be used as a spray to prevent and treat various plant problems such as mildew and insect infestations.

How to Make Your Own Enzyme Fertilizers

Enzyme plant fertilizers can be easily made yourself from almost any plant material. Good examples are fruit peels, fresh vegetables, and other plant scraps. Using materials such as citrus or pineapple peels will make the smell pleasant. Adding garlic, onions, or spices will make your fertilizer have the double function of also repelling pests. While adding cinnamon will both add a fragrance as well as make the fertilizer a good fungicide.

To make the enzyme fertilizer, shred or chop the plant material of your choice and combine with brown sugar or molasses at a rate of 1 part plant scraps to 3 parts sweetener, and 10 parts warm filtered water. Combine the above ingredients in an airtight bottle, (a simple plastic soda bottle works well), and shake vigorously. If there are some plant scraps floating on the surface exposed to oxygen, then put some stones or other weight on top to prevent mold. Leave the bottle to stand in a cool dry place for the enzymes to start working. Open the cap once in a while to let the co2 out (if using citrus peels, this will be pleasant). After about 3 months, your enzyme fertilizer would be ready to be used in the garden. The enzyme fertilizer can be stored in a cool, dry place away from sunlight for 5 to 6 months.

Using Enzyme Fertilizer in the Garden and Beyond

For use as a fertilizer, dilute the enzyme liquid at a rate of 1 tablespoon to a gallon of water. Dilution ratios of 1:100/500/1000 all work well depending on the pH requirements of the plant. Since the undiluted enzymes are acidic, using a more concentrated fertilizer for acid-loving plants such as blueberries will be beneficial. Fertilize your plants with the diluted enzyme fertilizer once every one to two weeks. You will not need to wait long, soon your plants will be thriving, blooming, and fruiting with vigor.

The enzyme fertilizer can also be used as a great natural way of keeping your plants pest, fungus, and disease-free. Spray the diluted liquid on plants or add it to the surrounding soil to control pests and fungus as well as stimulate the plants to defend against diseases.

Undiluted enzyme fertilizer can also be added to compost or dug into the soil and will greatly improve both of them. Spraying enzyme fertilizer on unfertile land along with the addition of incorporated compost is a very effective way of transforming bare sandy soil into fertile loam.

Enzyme fertilizers are also very helpful in the home. Undiluted enzyme liquid can be used to clean and polish practically anything. It will effectively remove grease, dirt, and mold from a wide range of surfaces.

Citrus Peel Enzyme Fertilizer Recipe

Have you wondered what you can do with all your lemon, orange, and tangerine peels? Here is an excellent way of using them in the garden and beyond. My personal favorite, this recipe is especially wonderful because of its pleasant fragrance and the fact that it is done in winter when most citrus peels are abundant. Making your own citrus enzyme fertilizer is a nice project for the cozy home on winter days when there is not much to do in the garden, and the 3-month curing time will make it just ready for spring gardening.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup (100 g) brown sugar
• 3 cups (300 g) citrus peels
• 4 1/2 cups (1 liter) of water

Mix sugar and water in a plastic bottle. Add the cut or shredded citrus peels and shake vigorously. Tightly close the cap and place it in a cool dry place for three months. Occasionally open the cap to let out the co2. After three months, the liquid will become dark brown and have a white film on top. Use the delightful smelling citrus enzyme fertilizer in keeping your garden pest- and disease-free, flourishing, and abounding with blooms and fresh harvest.

The post Enzymes for Plants: The Secret to Boosting Harvests and Blooms appeared first on Homestead.org.

Your little plants grow quickly and beautifully for a time, then they are chased by the dreaded weeds. Weeds, weeds everywhere, growing like grass on a golf course, thick and full, tall, and happy. By late June, if you’re like I used to be, you’ve all but given up even trying to keep them at bay. Once the real heat of summer hits, you surrender and end up harvesting whatever vegetables have fought their way through the jungle of weeds.
Why does it always happen the same way every year?  Yes, those who love to work at pulling and hoeing weeds might keep their gardens in the green, but the rest of us give up after we’ve sweated through our first pair of gardening gloves.

The answer is that you haven’t cast the right SPELL on your garden before you ever planted it. It’s a magic spell—a witches’ spell, if you like—that protects your garden from weeds, makes fertilizing completely unnecessary, and banishes many a bad nematode or blight from your shiny summer squashes.

Would you like to know the secret to a weed-free garden?

Here is the spell that will solve all your gardening woes this year:

“Dirt plus Darkness and Moisture, too… We will make SOIL out of you!”

Why do I say that this is a “witches’ spell”? Because the secret to the weed-free garden is a fungus amongus. It’s not a toadstool or a mushroom, but it’s a fungus none-the-less. What has been lost to modern gardeners who use chemical fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides in order to fight all the ills of the garden, and even to many organic gardeners, is that simple fungi can do all the hard work for you.

Let’s talk DIRT!

Dirt is just rocks. It’s minerals (which are rock) that have been ground up to a small size.  The largest particles of dirt are called sand. The next smaller size is called loam. The smallest-sized dirt is clay. All dirt is some combination of different sized rock particles:  sand, loam, and clay. But dirt is NOT the same as soil.

The only plants dirt grows are weeds. You need SOIL to grow vegetables, fruits, bushes, and trees. What’s the difference between dirt and soil? Organic matter. Often, gardeners bring organic matter into their gardens by introducing compost, peat, or even humus. While these elements add some life (and water-holding capacity) to dirt, they don’t make true soil.  To make true soil— magic soil that will make your garden sing under the midnight moon—you need FUNGI.

Let’s go back to the spell that makes soil… “Dirt plus Darkness and Moisture too…” The best soil is made in darkness.

You can turn a straight-up suburban lawn into good garden soil over just a few short months with nothing more than newspapers and mulch. Soil is made from aerobic bacteria and fungi called mycorrhizae. This happens in darkness and moisture.  If you cover the ground with something that blocks out the light but allows water to pass through, such as newspaper, cardboard, or contractor’s paper, then you will block the light to your dirt while still allowing water to reach it. This is step number one. This step will kill the grass and smother the weeds.

Step #2 is to keep the ground moist and cool. You do this by adding mulch on top of the paper; about 6 inches will do just fine and any mulch will do.  You can use hay, straw, or wood chips.  Try to get your wood chips from a tree service company, not from bags at Walmart or Home Depot. It’s best to have real wood chips and not the junk that they sell in bags. But if you must use the bags, it’s better than nothing.

Quick Note: If you want a raised row garden then make your raised rows before you apply the newspaper (or cover) and the mulch. Rest assured, the spell works with raised rows or with just flat land.

Under this dark, moist, cool layer, magic will happen.  Aerobic bacteria will grow; fungi will grow; worms and bugs will arrive. Ground that was once hard, dry, dead dirt will transform itself into good, fertile, fluffy soil ready for planting. Just give it a few months.

Step #3: Don’t Disturb It!  After a few months of letting nature do its work, you can plant directly into this soil.  It will be lighter, softer, more aerated. It will be alive. If you till it, turn it, or disturb it any more than is absolutely necessary, you will kill it. Fungi grow in thin webs that create a nutrient-carrying structure. They trade nitrogen with plant roots in exchange for sugar that the plant makes. Don’t disturb the soil any more than you absolutely need in order to plant your little seed or seedling. Don’t break the web of life created by the fungi.

Step #4 is to keep adding mulch as the plants grow.  Keep adding straw, torn-up newspapers, shredded wood, or whatever you can. Build up the layer of compost as the plants grow.  This will keep the weeds out. This will make the nitrogen in the soil conducive to vegetable and fruit plants and poisonous to weeds. Without going into detail there are different types of nitrogen. The type of nitrogen created by fungi, darkness, and moisture is good for soil but bad for weeds. Keep your soil dark, cool, and moist for a weed-free garden.

Why the Witches’ Spell Works for Making Soil

The problem with how people are taught to garden is that it destroys beneficial fungi (mycorrhizae) which are thin spiderweb-like strands of life that live in dark, moist soil. The fungi break down nitrogen that already exists in the soil and they transport that nitrogen to the roots of plants to trade it for sugars that plants make through photosynthesis.

In modern gardening, people are taught to hoe, rake, heap, and pile raw dirt. That process kills the fungi required for proper nutrition to good plants. That process literally MAKES proper nutrition for BAD plants, i.e. weeds!  Dirt does not grow vegetables, fruits, and trees. Dirt is just ground up rocks. Soil grows the vegetables we like. Soil is the enemy of weeds. Soil exists on forest floors beneath inches of decaying matter. Soil exists in moist, cool places. Soil exists because dark, cool, moist dirt grows the bacteria and fungi required to turn sterile dirt into rich, healthy soil.

Please allow me to repeat one last time for emphasis. If you hoe, you will kill the fungi. If you rake, you will kill the fungi. If you cultivate, you will kill the fungi. If you turn the soil, you will kill the fungi.

If, instead, you trust nature and follow the Witches’ Spell for a perfect weed-free garden then your great gardeners’ fortune will arrive on the midnight moonbeams and the morning dew. That fortune is the spreading of fine, filaments of fungi all through the soil under your deep layers of mulch and newspaper.

Try it!  Remember. “Dirt plus darkness and moisture too… We will make SOIL out of you!” 

Final Benefit of Making Soil for a Weed-Free Garden

As you are done with your garden plants just chop and drop the plant matter from your plants right on top of your thick mulch layer.  It will decay and descend into the soil. There is no reason to ever take anything out of your garden again. Just chop and drop the plants when they are done. There is no need to ever bring anything into your garden again. The mulch will turn to compost. The compost will turn to food for next year’s garden. The fungi will make sure of it.

If you just keep your garden dark and moist then it will make more and more rich soil for the following year. The true secret to growing a weed-free garden and the perfect garden plants is to focus on making the perfect garden soil. Once you do that the rest is easy year after year after year. Guaranteed!

The post Soil-Making Magic: The Secret Witches’ Spell for the Perfect Garden appeared first on Homestead.org.

What if we, homesteaders, landowners, and herb gardeners, became the sustainable change, and tossed the notion of the ideal lawn right out to the curb with the lawnmower? That’s right, when you plant a wildflower lawn, or let it pop up naturally, you will no longer need a mower. You can replace it with a scythe.

Soon you will be back in the land of hand tools, as you swap your lawn for a lush wildflower meadow that invites birds, bees, snakes, and insects you have never met before, right into your backyard.

Benefits of Wildflower Lawns

Protection of Biodiversity

As opposed to a few species in a lawn, you can grow many in a wildflower meadow. It all depends on your location, soil type, amount of sun and shade, but any number of plants past 20, and you are onto something good. Surpass 30 species and your new lawn is just about as diverse as it can get. The real challenge comes in identifying the many plants common to a wildflower lawn.

Here are some perennial plants to consider adding to your wildflower lawn to get you started:

• Butterfly weed – Asclepias tuberosa
• Queen of the Prairie – Filipendula rubra venusta
• Black Eyed Susan – Rudbeckia sp.
• Bloody Cranesbill or Hardy Geranium – Geranium sanguineum
• Echinacea – Echinacea purpurea
• Lupines – Lupinus perennis
• Daisies – Leucanthemum superbum

Plant a diversity of native wildflower seeds that are region-specific, and expect nothing. Some seeds may sit for longer than you would like, others will come up unexpectedly, whether they have been sitting dormant in the soil, or brought in by birds and other critters from distant lands.

Attract Pollinators

If you have an orchard on, or nearby, your homestead, likely you’ll be interested in beekeeping. You’ll also know that bee populations are in decline, you may have even heard about Colony Collapse Disorder. It is very real and very frightening, but there is something we can do about it: plant flowers, whole yards, and meadows of them, as we diversify the species that are in them.

See, all of these benefits of wildflower lawns flow into and out of each other. One simply serves to enhance the next, and it shows just how much the life cycle of a lawn is very one-sided. Who does it serve, other than your bare feet? Naturally, a grass lawn is better than bare soil, yet the earth desires to be covered in richness. To have luxurious richness, we need to attract pollinators and go full circle.

Wildlife Haven

If you wish for your lawn to provide a natural habitat for others, be ready to welcome larks, robins, warblers, finches, and even barn owls to your wildflower haven. Winged insects will fly in by the hundreds to take refuge from the stark, short-grass landscape that surrounds them, just as bees will find a diverse assortment of pollen to help them through the hardship of following the one-time blossom of mass agriculture.

But, it is not just about the bees, you’ll also be hosting moths, wasps, beetles, hoverflies, and bumblebees. All of these beneficial insects are essential if we aspire to have a bountiful crop of just about anything, and the more, the better. Rather than sticking to the concept of a conventional lawn, which feeds not more than grubs and acts as a habitat loss for all living creatures, invest in a wildflower lawn and you too will hear hedgehogs nibbling on fallen fruit during the night. On occasion, you may even see bats flying overhead, while out on your refreshing evening stroll.

Natural Beauty

As much as our eyes enjoy sameness, they also crave distraction. A wildflower lawn gives you a feast for the senses and so much more. Flowers will randomly pop up with their own variations of color. Large blossoms will stand proudly in the sun, while others will remain hidden underneath the layers, shyly hanging out and attracting pollinators.

The summer breeze will gently release the scents of blossoms, combining the fragrance of different species together. The fall winds will softly rattle the dry stalks of plants, and in winter, it will be the perfect backdrop for watching rabbits hop through your yard. Spring, of course, is where it all begins again, as the lawn turns from shades of tawny brown to hues of green, yellow, and purple.

Opportunities for Education and Recreation

A flourishing wildflower lawn has diversity in all shapes, sizes, and colors. It is the perfect place for the artist or the hidden painter in you. A wildflower meadow can also gain from the keen eye of a photographer, who, in turn, will educate onlookers with the help of a macro lens about the diversity of species and how magnificent our natural reality is.

Homeschoolers can also benefit from visiting such diverse lawnscapes, as they learn to identify new plants, butterflies, and insects, delving deeper into what it means to live with nature, not above it. Draw, sketch, get down on your knees and discover what is crawling all around. Then get familiar with easy to forage plants that can be made into herbal teas and healing salves: plantain, borage, dandelion, chicory, chamomile, poppy, and more.

Low Maintenance

Easy maintenance and low cost go hand in hand. Meadows are naturally drought tolerant, so there will be no more watering. Once they are established, they can take care of themselves, providing their own seeds—which means low input from you.

All you have to do is scythe it, or mow at the highest level your mower will allow, as little as twice a year. What to do with all that leftover grass and wildflower stems? We suggest you let it dry out sufficiently, as in making hay, and use it in your no-dig garden. Letting the grass grow long, is a win-win situation. The bees benefit from a diversity of pollen for much of the summer, and your garden gets mulched with it when the flowers are done.

Another benefit of wildflower lawns is that they will grow in nearly any type of soil, even nutrient-deficient areas. Leave it to nature and the worms will come in and restore the soil as the land becomes less and less disturbed.

Wildflower Lawns Promote Sustainability

Whereas a typical lawn has shallow roots, a meadow has a variety of root types that dig deep into the ground, bringing essential nutrients to the top of the soil. Once you learn to read your weeds as soil indicators, you’ll discover that they are actually beneficial next to the garden, as many insects prefer to dine on what grows wild.

It can also be said that wildflower lawns are beneficial in raising air quality, as they remove a range of pollutants from the air. Wildflower lawns also have amazing potential for removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. As we face a changing climate, any way and everywhere we can sequester carbon is a good place and time to do it.

When you factor in the reduced mowing time (even just once or twice a season!) and the removal of herbicides and pesticides to maintain your flourishing space, this will also reduce greenhouse gas emissions and water pollution associated with having a “lawn”.

A Place of Tranquility

Earthing and forest bathing are two wonderful ways to restore and relax in nature; wildflower meadows are the next best thing. If you only have a small plot of land, you can create a wildflower oasis with little effort. Take out your wooden stool, early in the morning or close to sunset, and sit among the waving flowers and the buzzing/chirping insects. Feel, as you are, one with nature.

Green spaces provide long-term joy and wonderful benefits for our mental health, one only needs to feel it, breathe it in, and release it back out to believe it.

Are you ready to give up your lawn and return your land back to Mother Nature? She needs all the wildflowers and trees she can receive as we face an uncertain climate in the future. Who knows, you may even decide to allow your homestead to become a Certified Wildlife Habitat as you silently, and beautifully, prove that lawns, and traditional lawn care, are definitely a thing of the past.

The post 8 Benefits of Wildflower Lawns appeared first on Homestead.org.

In the autumn of 2018, I visited my friend, Greg Hook, and his family near Anchorage, Alaska. Having heard many intriguing stories about him and his technique, I was excited to learn how he cultivates grapes in the cold climate. So, there I was, in the midst of the grape harvesting season, eager to learn.

He warmly greeted me at the door and led me inside the house. There his wife and children were busily washing lots of just-harvested fresh grapes. A delightful scent filled the room, crates upon crates of juicy grapes stood nearby. Honestly, I was surprised; I barely managed to get a decent harvest of grapes on my farm in Montana, while here in Alaska, their harvest was unbelievable.

Greg promised to explain to me his remarkable cold-climate farming secret after we celebrated the harvest. “Some five hundred miles up and you can meet a polar bear,” joked seven-year-old Jimmy, as we sat at the table overfilled with fruit, happily munching the fresh harvest. And he had a point; it was truly not a likely place for such a grape feast.

After we’d had our fill, Greg explained to me his technique as promised, while Jimmy, Mary, and another son, Fred, fed some grape leaves to a goat through the window. “It is very simple”, he said, “I use glass bottles to warm up the grape roots. Here, look,” he said, taking a piece of paper and drawing to make it clearer.

“I bury them upside down near the grape roots, leaving the bottom just at the surface of the ground. The shiny glass bottoms of the bottles warm up in the sun and transfer the heat to the surrounding soil.” Grapes, similar to many other crops, like to have their roots warm; it is most important for them. The only problem he explained, was getting all the bottles. “The whole town helped us collect them”, chuckled Greg. The children even organized a bottle collecting party at school.

We continued our talk outside as I helped them catch the runaway goat that had somehow climbed over the fence. As we walked, I looked at the grape fields. About four bottle-bottoms reflected the sunlight near each grapevine, like lots of small greenhouses to warm the soil near the roots. An easy, brilliant technique to harness the sun’s rays to keep the roots warm in the coldest of climates.

Even better, this method is not limited to cultivating grapes; almost any warm-loving fruit or vegetable would benefit from it and could be grown in cold climates. “You can’t imagine what a fine crop of tomatoes I got using this method”, explained Greg. “Bright red and very big and juicy”. The technique could probably even be used for staple crops like corn or wheat. This would likely increase the harvest while opening interesting possibilities for farming in cold climates. One idea that I will try on my homestead is to bury the bottles near fruit trees, but the possibilities are many when employing this unique method. The bottles require some care though, as Greg explained. Regularly dusting or washing them keeps them shining and absorbing the sun at their most.

Something that interested me very much was if Greg had learned the method, or did he invent it himself? He told me that it had come from Russia. When traveling on the outskirts of Moscow, a friend of Greg’s saw a farmer selling fresh grapes on a roadside. The friend, much surprised by seeing locally-grown grapes, asked him how he managed to grow them in the cold climate. After Greg’s friend had purchased a large bushel of grapes, the farmer was happy to explain his method.

We don’t know where the Russian farmer learned this method, or whether he invented it, but it is remarkably interesting how a farming secret can pass thousands and thousands of miles for the benefit of distant farmers and gardeners.

Greg was very eager for me to publish his method for those same reasons. He and his family commonly read homesteading magazines and he was glad that others could use his bottle technique. After the goat was safely grazing grass in its pen, it was time to go, my plane would be leaving soon. I bade goodbye and left the lovely farm. It was a great day; I was truly surprised at what a remarkable farming technique I’d learned while simply enjoying the countryside lunch. A good farm table can be worth a lot.

How To Grow Warm-Loving Crops In Cold Climates

Old glass bottles can be used to warm up the soil in cold climates. This method works great for grapes, but can be used for many other warm-loving plants. This technique also has the advantage of extending the growing season by warming the soil faster in spring and keeping it freezing further into autumn. You can also try experimenting by combining this method with other warming techniques like cloches, hoop houses, and greenhouses to achieve even more warming effects.

Using Glass Bottles to Warm Up Soil

You will need:

Old glass bottles, about 4 per plant. 

Instructions:

Bury the glass bottles upside down near the plant roots. The shiny glass bottoms should be flush with the surface of the soil. The upside-down bottles will act like small underground greenhouses, effectively warming the soil around the plant’s roots. Care for the bottles by dusting or washing them once in a while, keeping them shiny, to warm the soil most efficiently.

Plants that will benefit from this method:

Though almost all plants will benefit by having their soil warm, these crops need and appreciate it most.

• Peppers
• Tomatoes
• Melons (this method is ideal for farmers and gardeners who want to grow melons in colder climates but don’t have the space for a greenhouse).
• Grapes
• Beans
• Eggplant
• Cucumbers
• Pumpkins
• Squashes
• Corn
• Sweet Potatoes
• Sunflowers
• Okra
• Amaranth
• Swiss Chard

Using this method, you can also try growing some mild-climate crops like figs, olives, pomegranate, and maybe even some tropicals like bananas, cacao, or mango.

The post How a Farmer Grows Grapes in Alaska appeared first on Homestead.org.

Ancient people watched the Moon disappear and reappear in the sky, and they came to structure their world around its phases; they planted and harvested by her and even made her the center of their religious ceremonies.  To ancient people, the full Moon became a symbol of fertility, ovulation, and birth, and it’s a widely held belief even today that more births occur near a full moon than at any other time of the month.  The Moon affects every aspect of life here on Earth; its gravitational pull even moves the fluids in our own bodies; some physicians won’t even perform surgery during a full Moon, claiming the risk of increased bleeding is too great.

The Moon’s effect on Earth’s water was known even in the days of the Romans.  Plutarch, the Roman historian (c. 46 -120 AD) said, “The moon showeth her power most evidently in those bodies which have neither sense nor lively breath; for carpenters reject the timber of trees fallen in the full moon as being soft and tender, subject also to the worm and putrefaction, and that quickly by means of excessive moisture.”

Lunar Gardening Logic

The first Indian tribes that roamed the plains of America kept track of the seasons by giving every recurring full moon a special name, one for each month.  The Moon When Eyes Are Sore from Bright Snow was for February, The Fish Spoils Easily Moon was for June, and The Moon When the Wolves Run Together was for December. August was the Sturgeon Moon and November the Beaver Moon.

Black Elk, a famous Oglala Sioux medicine man, arranged a treaty signing with the United States during the Moon of the Falling Leaves (also November), and meetings of all the Lakota tribes took place during the Moon of the Changing Season (October).  The Indians saw the moon as a symbol for fate and time, and as the great Earth Mother.

People of old farmed, hunted, and shepherded according to the rhythms of the earth and moon; understanding how the two worked together was critical to their survival.  The moon in the night sky fascinated them, so they watched it, studied it, and learned how it coincided with their own environment.  They observed that during the full moon, tides, lakes, and rivers rose, then there was more water in the ground, planting during these times produced greater crop yields, and they surmised that the increased water content in the ground was the reason why.

If you desire to produce a garden that is in total harmony with Mother Nature and the cycles of life, one that won’t further pollute and offend our great Mother Earth, then you should consider lunar gardening.

Begin your study of the Moon by watching it:

The New Moon always rises at sunrise.

The 1st quarter rises at noon.

The Full Moon always rises at sunset.

The last quarter rises at midnight.

The cycle from one new moon to the next is about 29 ½ days long.  When you look up in the night sky and see the right side of the moon shining brightly, the moon is waxing, or growing in light; when you see the left side of the moon shining brightly, it’s waning, or decreasing in light.

To understand lunar gardening, a lot of sources must be considered; much of this information is obscured by the annals of history, and some is cloaked in myth.  Because of this, skepticism and doubt have been the scourge of this tried and true, yet ancient, system of gardening.

Following only the Sun in brightness, our Moon is the second-largest moon in the solar system.  Reflected sunlight is what makes the moon shine, and the moon’s phases are caused by the different angles from which we see the sunlit side of the moon.

The moon can come as close to Earth as 218,000 miles, causing reactions in our atmosphere, oceans, and Earth’s surface.  You have witnessed the moon’s most famous influence, the tides, as it pulls them to and fro.  As the moon orbits the Earth, it causes the tides to rise and fall, affects our air currents, and is a major factor in causing thunderstorms.  Not only are the tides pulled from side to side during the moon’s phases, but all water on the earth is put in motion; tides in rivers and lakes rise, the water that is on the earth’s surface, even the water in the cells of plants and in our own bodies, is affected.

Water absorption in the Earth is highest during a full moon when its gravitational pull is the greatest, and there’s a definite decline in the water on Earth during the new moon.  Even the cells in our own bodies have been shown to respond to the pull of the moon, and some surgeons won’t schedule surgeries during this time because the moon’s pull causes excess bleeding.

The Waxing and Waning Moon

The two basic lunar activities that you need to be concerned with if you want to garden by the moon are its waxing and waning, which are the two activities that make up the lunar month.

Both waxing and waning are designated by the new and full moon.  The moon is waxing, or growing in light, when it’s in the first and second quarters; you’ll know the moon is waxing when you see its right side lit up.

The moon is waning, or decreasing in light, when it’s in the third and fourth quarters; you’ll know the moon is waning when you see its left side lit up.

Also consider this: tides reach their highest point every 14.6 days, or twice a month.  Rainfall cycles mirror the tide cycles in response to the position of the moon, therefore you can look forward to the highest rainfall just after a new or full moon.  Take advantage of this when planning your garden.

The position of the moon in the sky is another factor to consider when planting by the moon, and there are two terms you need to know: Perigee and apogee.  When the moon is at perigee, it’s closest to the earth, and the tides are pulled 30% higher than they are when the moon is at apogee, or farthest from the earth.  If the tides are pulled higher, we can assume that the entire water table of the Earth is affected more strongly as well.

How the Moon Influences the Earth and Why Lunar Gardening Makes Sense

“We may achieve climate, but weather is thrust upon us.”  O’Henry.

When the moon is waxing, its gravitational pull on Earth’s water is greater, and there is more water to be had for plants.  When the moon is waning, Earth’s water is receding, and there is less of it for plants to take up into their root systems.  Any fruit or vegetable meant to be eaten immediately is best if harvested during a waxing moon, when water content is at its highest, and many farmers have found that crops harvested and stored during a waning moon, when the earth’s water content is lowest, keep better and for longer periods of time.

How to Take Advantage of the Waxing Moon

• Sow your lawn during a waxing moon, also plant wheat and grains.
• Sow leafy vegetables and flowers; they produce their yield above ground and don’t rely on extensive root development.
• If you want flowers that are beautiful and smell good, plant them in the first quarter of the waxing moon.
• Raspberries, blackberries, and gooseberries should be planted in the second quarter of the waxing moon.
• If the area where you live is in a drought, sow seeds when the moon is waxing, as close to the full moon as possible.
• Grafting should be done in the first or second quarter of the waxing moon, as well as transplanting and repotting of houseplants.
• Water your plants during a full moon.
• Harvest grapes that you plan to use in winemaking.
• Gather herbs that you intend to use for essential oils now; their oil content will be more concentrated.
• Water your compost heap.

How to Take Advantage of the Waning Moon

• Now is the time to sow crops that produce their yield below ground.  Root vegetables like beets, carrots, and potatoes are among these.
• Plant trees and saplings in the third quarter of the waning moon; this will encourage a strong root system.
• Kill weeds and thin out any plants that you need to now.  This is also a good time to prune.
• Perennials should be divided in the third or fourth quarter of a waning moon.
• Fertilize with potassium at the waning moon; this is when potassium absorption is at its peak.
• Harvest all crops that will need long-term storage, like cabbage, potatoes, and apples.
• Fruit trees should always be sprayed during the fourth quarter of a waning moon.
• Harvest flowers and seeds now that you plan to store until next year, dig herb roots, leaves, and bark that will be used for medicinal purposes as well.
• All drying activities should be done now, as well as spreading and turning compost.

Lunar gardening encompasses both the phases of the moon and the signs of the zodiac; many lunar gardeners simply study the moon and plant according to its phases.  But if you want to incorporate the signs into your planting, you need to know which phase the moon is in as well as which sign it’s passing through before you decide to plant.

For instance, if you’re planting crops that produce their yield above the ground, like okra and tomatoes, plant them when the Moon is in the first or second quarter and also when it is passing through a fruitful sign such as Cancer, Scorpio, or Pisces.  The Moon moves through the zodiac signs, and each sign is associated with one of the four elements: fire, earth, water, or air.  Plants are believed to favor certain signs; for instance, flowers prefer air signs like Libra, Gemini, and Aquarius. The fire signs of Aries, Leo, and Sagittarius are dry and barren, and are a good time to do your weeding.  Annual plants like the fertile water signs of Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces.

Of the twelve zodiac signs, all the fruitful and semi-fruitful signs are feminine, except Libra.  Libra is the exception to the rule; it’s a masculine air sign and is considered semi-fruitful.  You should consider planting in Libra when your goal is to produce beautiful plants.  The fruitful signs include Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces; the semi-fruitful signs include Taurus, Libra, and Capricorn.

The barren signs of the zodiac are all male signs, and they include Aries, Gemini, Leo, Virgo, Sagittarius, and Aquarius.  Virgo is the exception to the rule here; its symbol is the virgin, and a virgin is a non-producer, so it makes sense that it would be barren.  Libra, whose symbol is the scales, could be neutral, and this is why it’s not a good producer of anything except flowers and other ornamentals.  Libra is also good for seeds and things that produce seeds, like grain.

The Four-season Garden

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In 1985, my family moved to a small farm in Sharpsburg, Maryland. The wooden-frame house was built sometime around the turn of the 20th century, and I’m guessing it was about this time that the owners planted sugar maple trees around the front and sides of the house. We moved there in August when the daytime temps were in the 90s, yet there was no need for air conditioning. The large canopies of the maple trees blocked the sunlight and kept the house cool all summer.

(We were sad to lose one of the maples to a lightning strike one summer, and years later, we lost another one that had begun to crack and break up from old age. The trunk on that one was as wide as our front door, and some of the lower limbs were a foot in diameter. We got several cords of firewood out of the wood, which kept our wood stove fed for a couple of winters.)A good landscaping plan can make a home significantly more energy-efficient. Strategically placed trees and shrubs can do double duty, providing cooling shade in summer and insulation against heat loss in winter. According to the U.S Department of Energy, properly selected, placed, and maintained landscaping can reduce household energy bills by as much as 25 percent. While landscaping can involve a significant expenditure up front, it will pay for itself over the long haul in lower energy bills.

Landscaping strategies for conserving energy depend largely on where you live. The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, shown below, divides North America into 11 planting zones to help homeowners determine the best landscaping choices for their region. Each growing zone is 10°F warmer (or colder) in an average winter than the adjacent zone. If you see a recommended hardiness zone in a gardening catalog or plant description, chances are it refers to this map.

Create an Effective Windbreak to Reduce Winter Heating Costs

Landscape windbreaks, such as a row of trees or a hedge, are commonly dense evergreen trees and shrubs. A row or hedge of evergreens is preferable to deciduous trees for blocking the wind because their mature heights in relation to typical home heights are ideal for wind blockage. They are also dense enough to stop most of the wind and have foliage that extends to the ground. In addition to planting banks of large trees and shrubs, planting smaller shrubs next to a home further reduces the impact of wind. The figure below illustrates a typical plan for windbreaks.

Plant Deciduous Trees Around the House to Reduce Summer Cooling Costs

When the summer sun beats down on your home, blasting the air conditioner or running ceiling fans are the only ways to cool your house. Fans don’t use much electricity, particularly if set to a low speed, but they just move the air around rather than cool it. Air conditioning, on the other hand, uses a lot of electricity. If you’re like me and want to run the air conditioning as little as possible, a good landscaping plan can, over time, help to lower summer cooling costs. The cooling provided by an even partially-shaded house means a lower energy footprint and more green in your wallet.

Trees planted on the west and south sides of the house provide the greatest savings since they provide shade from the afternoon’s hottest summer sunlight. Deciduous trees are better than non-deciduous (evergreens) trees, as they will lose their leaves in the fall and allow what sunshine there is to effectively do the opposite and provide more warmth to the home. Be sure to plant trees that are tall enough to shade the roof, windows, and walls for the months of June, July, and August.

The ideal shade tree is 25- to 50-feet tall with a big canopy. A tree that size will partially shade the roof of a one-story home, but will not reach an unmanageable size. As a general rule of thumb, large trees should not be placed closer than 15 feet from the foundation so the roots won’t cause a problem with the foundation. Keep in mind how big the trees will get at maturity so they will be properly spaced and provide the desired shade.

Smaller trees and shrubs also have a role to play in energy conservation. They can be planted closer to the house than tall trees to shade east- and west-facing walls and windows in the morning and afternoon when the sun is lower. Spreading evergreen shrubs with dense foliage, such as yews or junipers, planted close to the house, can fill in rapidly to shade walls and windows (as a bonus, these shrubs can provide sheltering places for birds in harsh weather or a quick place to hide from aerial predators.) In wet and humid areas, avoid planting up against the house so air can circulate freely. Check with your local extension office or garden center before buying a landscape shrub for advice on species that are invasive or prone to serious pest or disease problems in your area.

The high cost of home heating and air conditioning is pushing more homeowners to explore ways to reduce home energy use. Outdoor landscape plants—which help control erosion and are pleasing in themselves—can play a large part in controlling household energy use. For that reason, it’s important to consider the entire landscape plan in relation to energy conservation on the homestead.

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