This article explores trapping from a conservation-focused perspective, showing how regulated trapping supports ecological balance, safeguards homesteads, and contributes to healthier habitats. By combining insights from wildlife agencies with hands-on experience, I aim to provide readers with a grounded understanding of how trappers fit into the modern ecological food web and how anyone interested can responsibly get started.

Conservationists: Stewards of the Natural World

Some people think that protecting natural resources means not using them at all, but Aldo Leopold (the father of wildlife management) points out that when we begin to see ourselves as part of the ecological food web, we begin to use our resources with discretion. We must be active participants in the ecosystem, not just watchful observers.

How does using natural resources, such as fur-bearing animals, contribute to conservation? Hunters and trappers follow regulations designed to maintain the environment’s carrying capacity, which is the maximum population size that a particular environment can sustain at its lowest level of food available. Every fur-bearing animal has a certain season when it can be harvested, which takes breeding habits into account, as well as a bag limit that determines how many can be harvested from an area. This protects wildlife from being overharvested, while also limiting how large their populations can grow. These regulations protect both humans and animals from unnecessary interactions in urban areas.

A Trapper’s Impact

I was drawn to trapping because it is such an effective way to manage and diversify the native habitat that surrounds our homestead. I get to be a steward of the natural world by taking inventory of the plant and animal species that we share land with through my daily observations. We do our best to diversify the native plant and animal species that encompass our acreage because a diverse ecosystem is a resilient one. If there is an abundance of raccoons and skunks on our property, we see a decline in the number of wild turkeys. On the flip side, if there aren’t any turkey-eating predators at all, turkeys can damage neighboring crop fields.

Recent studies show that raccoon pressure and the benefits of removal are site-specific. Raccoon densities in rural habitats can range from roughly 2 to 5 raccoons per km², so not every landscape needs intense removal. Focused removal at vulnerable sites has produced dramatic short-term results (for example, sea-turtle nest depredation on Panther Key dropped from ~76–100% to 0% after removals). However, benefits can decline after 2–3 years as animals immigrate or other predators fill the niche, so trapping should be paired with habitat adjustments and continued monitoring. Finally, most published removal experiments have been done on conservation sites rather than generic homesteads, so private-landowners should proceed cautiously, keep good records, and adapt practices to local conditions.

Someone could argue that nature has systems in place to keep animal populations in check through starvation, disease, or predation. However, there has never been a time in our history when we didn’t utilize animals as natural resources, so do we really know if nature would just balance itself out? The problem with this line of thinking is that it suggests we are not part of the ecological food web. Trappers do not seek to remove all predators from an area—we know there must be a healthy ratio of predator to prey species.

An example of trappers bringing balance back to an ecosystem was a fox-trapping management plan in eastern North Dakota and eastern South Dakota. Several foxes were removed from these areas, which restored the dwindling duck population. Ducks are considered ground-nesting birds, making them easy targets for predators like foxes and raccoons in the spring.

Regulated Trapping and Animal Welfare

To become a trapper, it’s important to understand the complexities of the ecosystem. Trapping has an ugly past—overharvesting, no concern for animal welfare, and greed—but today’s trappers are required to take an educational course to learn regulations before they can obtain a license. There are strict rules in place that determine which types of traps can be used on land or water to reduce the number of non-target animals being trapped. The traps of today are designed to hold the animal in place, unharmed, so they can either be dispatched or released. Trappers must also check their land sets daily to limit how long an animal is held in the trap.

So, if federal and state agencies highly regulate trapping, why do we do it? There’s very little money to be made through trapping, so most participants are not driven by greed. For most of us, it’s an instinctive urge to be connected to the land around us, and we feel a responsibility to help conserve our natural resources—even if that means following strict regulations.

How Does Trapping Benefit the Homestead?

We’ve all heard the advice to plant flowers to attract pollinators to the garden, but not as many people talk about the benefits of diversifying animal species around the homestead. Removing a few predators (raccoons, skunks, foxes, or coyotes) every year improves the biodiversity of prey species such as ground-nesting turtles, birds, and rabbits. Improving biodiversity benefits the functionality of the ecosystem through pollination, nutrient cycling, and decomposition. It also improves an ecosystem’s resilience to withstand disturbances such as disease outbreaks or climate change.

Animals such as beaver, raccoon, and muskrat can be delicious when properly prepared, but the less desirable animals can be fed to chickens or pigs to diversify their nutrient intake. In the winter, when bugs are unavailable to our chickens, we feed them the remains of the seemingly healthy fur-bearing animals we harvest as an alternative protein source.

Wild-harvested fur has become a desirable textile again due to its sustainability. Unlike polyester, it breaks down and decomposes when discarded, and it is considered a renewable resource. Strict trapping regulations are in place and regularly updated to protect this resource from becoming threatened.

How to Obtain a Trapping License

Trapping is one of those skills that less than one percent of the population participates in, but those who have this skill are usually eager to pass along their knowledge. Finding a local mentor who is willing to let you ride along on their trapline is a priceless form of education. You will still need to take a trapper’s education course provided by your state’s Department of Natural Resources (DNR). You will learn the rules and regulations of your state to be eligible to purchase a license. It varies by state, but you must have a license to trap any animal on your property.

Use a search engine to find the closest DNR office and sign up for the in-person class. In most states, you can also sign up for an online class, but many students in the class I took said it was very difficult compared to learning in person. Doing the in-person class also allows trappers to connect with each other and trade tips and tricks to enhance their skills. Trapper’s Education will walk you through the basic equipment permitted in your state. Trap types and sizes vary, and if you’re ever in doubt, call your local conservation warden. They would rather spend their time educating people about legal equipment than issuing citations.

Scouting for Sign

Prepping for the opening day of trapping season in the fall begins long beforehand with scouting for animal sign. It starts by knowing the food web and taking notes of areas with natural food sources for target animals. This involves learning how to identify native plant species, which helps determine what prey species are present and, in turn, what predators are nearby. For example, an open, sunny location is a great place for berries to grow, and raccoons love berries. It also helps to learn how to identify animal scat and tracks so you don’t have to guess about which animals are in the area. We usually know where we will build our trapline long before the season starts, which saves time in the long run.

When we know which animals we will target through year-round scouting, we build our trapping tool bag accordingly. Animals of the canine species are the hardest to trap, and many seasoned trappers suggest starting with raccoons because they are so abundant. This helps build confidence on the trapline before pursuing other animals.

Raccoons are opportunistic omnivores—they will eat berries, nuts, small mammals, frogs, fish, and even trash. A raccoon track is comparable to a tiny human hand; it has five sausage-shaped toes on each foot, connected to a C-shaped palm pad. Their scat is cylindrical in shape, has broken or blunted ends, and is usually dark in color. In the fall, you might observe bits of undigested food in it, such as berry seeds.

What’s in a Raccoon Trapper’s Tool Bag?

A typical raccoon trapper’s tool bag consists of (but is not limited to): dog-proof coon traps (DP coon traps), J-hooks with a J-hook tool (to attach the anchoring system), an anchoring system, bait (cat food or a piece of donut), a stake driver (to pound the anchoring system in place), hammer, and gloves. You could use a live trap as well, but I have found it impossible to keep my chickens out of them. The dog-proof coon traps are perfect in almost any scenario.

You can get DP coon traps at most feed supply stores, but there are also small business trapping suppliers such as Hoosier Trapping Supply, Minnesota Trapline Products, and F & T Fur Harvester’s Trading Post. The benefit of ordering through a small trapping supplier is that their employees are trappers and can help answer your questions. There is always the option of finding used traps through word of mouth or an online marketplace. Going this route can also help build connections with experienced trappers in your area—you may learn a thing or two.

How to Make a Set

Trappers follow many rules, but one of the simplest is to set on animal sign. This increases your odds of catching your target animal because many will revisit the same places if they’ve found food there. If you can find a path they use, set your trap nearby. Pack some bait, such as cat food or a sweet treat, in the bottom of the dog-proof coon trap, drive the anchoring system into the ground, and pull up to lock it in place and test for security. Next, set the trap either with your hands or by placing it on the ground and using your foot to squeeze the trigger so it locks in place. Point the opening in the direction that raccoons will see it. The trap has a trigger system that is set off when they try to pull the bait out of the tube. After your first successful catch, repack the trap with bait and set it again. Raccoons live in groups, so chances are you’ll catch a few more in the same spot.

A Few Closing Thoughts

The largest hurdle for trapping acceptance is a lack of information. I still see people on social media arguing that it’s necessary to trap and kill coyotes because they will eat all your livestock, but that approach generally closes the door to understanding. Leading with fact rather than emotion seems to be the best approach.

When you become a trapper, you have a responsibility to maintain a respectable image in the public eye for the sake of all trappers. This means understanding your critical role in the ecological food web, knowing your state’s regulations and adhering to them, and obtaining your license before you begin your trapping journey.

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Since 2020, there’s been a growing demand for natural fibers like wool, cotton, and fur, thanks to their sustainability and eco-friendly nature. This trend presents a fantastic opportunity for homesteaders and outdoor enthusiasts to make use of those hides that may have been accumulating in the freezer since hunting or butchering season. By learning how to tan hides at home, you can preserve them in a way that’s not only practical but also environmentally conscious.

Why Tanning Hides Matters

Tanning at home is more than just a craft—it’s a form of preservation that allows you to use what nature has provided in the most efficient way possible. Unlike store-bought leather, which often requires heavy chemicals in its processing, home tanning methods can be natural and less harmful to the environment. This growing movement towards self-sufficiency is tied to the desire to leave the land better than we found it, fostering a deeper sense of responsibility toward natural resources.

Unlike synthetic fibers such as polyester, fur will decompose and return to the land offering nutrition to the soil. It feels good owning something crafted with fur knowing it leaves a small ecological footprint.

How We Source Raw Hides

We raise rabbits to feed our family and we feel best making use of every part of the animal including their fur. We hunt for snowshoe hares in the early spring and trap (beaver, coyote, fox, muskrat, raccoon, and otter) in the late fall through winter.

If you are looking to source raw hides to work with, it pays to connect with other homesteaders or local hunters, and trappers. Before I had my rabbits, a local rabbitry (and now my friend) donated a bunch of raw rabbit hides to encourage me to learn the skill of tanning. Tell people you are interested in pursuing a new skill and they will surely point you in the right direction.

The Methods of Tanning

There are three main methods to tan fur; chrome, vegetable, and non-chrome tanning.

Chrome Tanning

This method is most commonly used in the fur-handling industry. It produces soft, workable leather ideal for crafting garments and accessories. However, chrome tanning has a higher ecological footprint, as it requires chemicals like chromium sulfate, which can be harmful to the environment and your health if not managed properly.

Vegetable Tanning

A centuries-old technique, vegetable tanning dates back to 2000 BC and uses tannin-rich materials like oak bark, willow bark, acorns, egg yolks, or even animal brains to treat the hide. It results in a strong, dark leather perfect for heavy-use items like rugs or boots. If you’re short on bark but still want to go the natural route, products like Knobloch’s Deer Hunter or Trapper’s Hide Tanning Formula use bark extracts for a more accessible option. This is the formula I use in my instructions, it works well for thin hides such as rabbits and foxes and is available at most big box stores such as Farm and Fleet.

Non-Chrome Tanning

If you’re looking for a less toxic solution than chrome tanning, this method is a great choice. Non-chrome tanning produces soft, clothing-quality leather. Non-chrome tanning is useful for thick hides such as raccoons, coyotes, or otters.  One popular product for this is EZ-100, found at many fur-handling supply stores such as F&T Fur Harvester’s Trading Post.

Storing Fur in the Freezer

If you don’t have time to tan a hide immediately after skinning, you can store them in the freezer indefinitely. Fold the animal flesh to flesh and then roll it up starting with the tail end first. Put the hide in a sealed bag. If using a plastic handled bag and tying it shut, check on the hides periodically I’ve had hides partially dry out using these bags. A trash bag or gallon Ziplock works best.

Safety First

While working with hides it is advised to wear rubber gloves. Accidents happen, if you cut yourself working with hides it’s helpful to have a layer of protection. I made the rookie mistake of fleshing so many salted hides with my bare fingers that a crack formed on my finger and became infected. I became pretty sick, but I made the mistake so you don’t have to!

Preparing the Fur to be Tanned

If you want to tan a hide after skinning, begin with step one right away. If you’re tanning a hide from the freezer, pull it out a day before and allow it to thaw. Once the hide is fully thawed you can begin step one. Sometimes extra salt is needed for a freezer hide compared to a fresh one.

What You Need to Start

For the sake of my instructions, I will be discussing how to vegetable tan one rabbit hide using Deer Hunter’s and Trapper’s Hide Tanning Formula. If you want to use something else such as egg yolks you will have the option to do so when you get to step 6.  I usually like to tan three hides at a time because I find it the easiest to fit into my weekly routine. Do more than three and your hands may become a bit tired when you are just getting started. These will take up space in a designated area for up to a week at a time so keep that in mind when deciding where to keep the project.

• 3 pounds of salt
• 1 gallon of white vinegar
• box of baking soda
• a bottle of “Hunter and Trapper’s Hide Tanning Formula” or another tanning medium of your choice
• large bowl
• shampoo or dish soap
• large screen or baby gate
• paintbrush
• PH test strips

Tanning Hides How-To

1. Fleshing the Hide.

   The first task when tanning is to remove the membrane and fat from the hide. With a small animal like a rabbit, it is easiest to pick the membrane off by hand. It’s important to remove as much as possible, but don’t worry if it’s not perfect on the first try—you can always touch up later. The thinner you can get the hide, the more delicate it is to work with but you will have a softer product.

2. Salting the Hide. 

   Once the majority of the fat and flesh is removed, cover the flesh side of the hide with fine salt and let it sit for about two days. After one day has passed you may need to add a bit more salt to any wet-looking spots. As the hide dehydrates and shrinks, it helps set the hair and prevents bacterial growth. After the hide is fully dry, try getting more flesh off. A rabbit is one of the only animals that can be easier to flesh once salted and dried. Some people choose to stretch the hide by nailing it to a board while it dries to ensure there are no missed spots, but I find a rabbit hide lays flat enough that it doesn’t get problem wrinkles or folds when laid on a flat surface.

3. Pickling the Hide.

   After two days, brush off the salt into a large bowl, and it’s time to pickle the hide. Create a solution in the bowl with salt using 1/2 gallon vinegar, 1/2 gallon water, and 1 pound of salt. Place a rock or kitchen strainer on the hide to hold it under the solution. The pickle helps alter the hide’s pH and protein structure, preparing it to absorb the tanning agents and destroying any bacteria that could cause the hair to slip. Skipping this step can result in a hide that degrades quickly over time. Let the hide soak in the solution for 2-3 days, depending on its thickness, and monitor the pH daily using test strips (1.0-2.0 is ideal). Inspect the hide daily and peel away any missed flesh, it will become obvious once the hide has absorbed the pickle. Press a thumbnail into the flesh each day and if the impression stays, it is done.

4. Wash the Hide. 

   With a basic shampoo or dish soap, wash the hide and get any impurities off. This step is sometimes called “degreasing” because the fat from the animal can sometimes coat the fur and make a dirty appearance once fully dried.

5. Neutralizing the Hide. 

   Once your hide is properly pickled and washed, it’s time to neutralize it. Mix a tablespoon of baking soda in a gallon of water and soak the hide for 24 hours. This step prevents the hide from becoming too stiff or brittle during the drying process and stops the pickle from breaking down the fibers. I use the strainer or rock to hold the hide under the solution as well.

6. Applying the Tanning Solution.

   After neutralizing, rinse and wring out the hide gently. Rather than twisting the hide to wring, squeeze the hide repeatedly until the fur is damp but not dripping. Apply the tanning solution to the flesh side evenly. Fold the hide flesh-to-flesh and let it sit on a screen or baby gate for two days to allow the solution to soak in. One bottle can do about 9 rabbit hides. Setting the wet hides on a solid surface can cause the hair to fall out.

7. Stretching and Breaking the Hide

   Stretch and “break” the hide as it dries. This means pulling the hide in all directions to soften the leather. A two-by-four or the edge of a table works well for this. Depending on how thick the hide and fur are, you may need to spend 2-3 days working on it until it dries fully. You must stretch it couple of hours until the hide is no longer cold when you press it to your cheek. The hide will be completely white once finished. (In this picture the hide is only partially stretched as it’s not fully white.)

Connect with Nature and Gain a Skill

A few notes before I close this out, these instructions for tanning a rabbit’s hide can be applied to any animal hide. You simply make enough pickling solution and neutralizing solution to ensure whichever hide you do is fully submerged. You can also use these instructions and simply swap out which tanning solution you use for example, instead of using “Deer Hunter’s and Trapper’s Hide Tanning Formula” during step 6, you can swap that product out for EZ-100, egg yolks, or brains. Tanning hides is a skill that improves with practice. Many seasoned tanners still rip a hole in the hide now and then, especially during the fleshing or skinning process.

Don’t get discouraged if your first few hides aren’t perfect. I ruined nine rabbit hides during my learning process, the hides all had slippage which means the hair fell out of the hide. Once I figured the process out, I sewed together a muskrat headband and gained a real appreciation for the time and care that early furriers put into making their clothes. Home tanning is an invaluable skill that connects us with the outdoors and the natural world. As we look for more sustainable, self-reliant ways of living, learning the art of hide tanning offers a practical way to make use of every part of the animals we harvest. While the process requires patience and practice, the rewards are worth it—a beautiful, one-of-a-kind leather hide that tells a story of craftsmanship, tradition, and a deeper connection to the land. Together we can continue to pass on this timeless skill, ensuring that it remains a part of our outdoor heritage for generations to come.

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