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by Neil Shelton   

The best way to assure that you've found at least a fair deal is to be familiar with the market and that's a lot easier than it used to be.  Once you've decided on the make and model you want to buy, I recommend  you spend a few hours looking over the selection at TractorHouse.com.  You'll find several examples of most any popular model you want to consider, and you can compare the prices and conditions there until you're a near-expert.  You may even find the tractor you're looking for within a reasonable distance of your home.

You can also find a selection of used attachments there. 

Things may be different in your area, but In my neck of the woods, where the vegetation is lush and the rains are frequent, most everyone who buys a small tractor usually also purchases a brush-cutter of some kind, and a grading blade of some kind.  I'd like to say a word about these. 

First, the brush-cutter, what's generically called a bush-hog.  For $500-or $600 you can get a new brush-cutter made with a sheet metal body.  Don't buy one of these unless all you really want is to mow grass (in which case you're better off with a finish mower).  Real bush-hogging requires something with heavy steel plate, like the brand-name Bush-hog cutters, if you're looking for equipment that will last more than a season or two.  These cost more in the neighborhood of $1500 and up new, but since they'll last for decades, you're better off buying a used one than a new model of the lighter version.

As for grading blades, a straight blade does a poor job of most of the things you want to do with a blade.  If you want to smooth your driveway, a box-blade is much, much more effective.  Even a rock-rake does a better job of smoothing roads than a straight blade (although the straight blade will do a barely-adequate job if you turn it around backwards)

Straight blades are probably best for moving snow, but if you want to grade or move rocks, you're better off with either a box blade or a rock rake.

A very good companion piece to a tractor is a utility trailer that you can haul it on.  Besides giving you the capacity to attempt jobs at a distance from your home, a trailer is the only practical and affordable way to get your machine to the shop should that be required. 

Finally, safety should be a major concern when you're shopping for an older tractor.  Even a small tractor can kill you if you wind up under it or entangled in the PTO, and roll-over protection and PTO guards were virtually unheard of prior to the 1970's. Many of the older tractors have the row-crop or tricycle configuration which is just simply not as stable no matter what anyone tells you.  I'd avoid these.   Most tractors, even the older models, have wheels and axles that will allow you to widen the tread and this an important safety feature that you should have. 

Don't kid yourself that you'll be able to jump clear of an overturning tractor. 

When you get your new-to-you tractor home, always remember to avoid driving along the edge of streams or ditches that can undercut their banks and if you're not certain that you can drive across a side-hill safely drive up and down it perpendicular to the slope.

If you're pulling anything with a chain or nylon strap attached to the tractor, connect the chain to the draw-bar or something else as low to the ground as possible, so as to avoid turning the machine over backwards.

When you're mowing near overhanging tree branches, have your wits about you, as a stout limb can sweep you off of the seat and into the path of the mower.

Also, avoid letting your clothing or hair ever get anywhere near the power-take-off when it's running.  It can pull you in and wrap you around the shaft more quickly than it takes to tell about it. 

Remember that farming has always been one of the most dangerous professions, and that largely because of tractors.  All you need to do to avoid death (or worse) is to follow a few common-sense precautions.

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