Before you order birds you will need to get some basic
supplies. A watering fount is the first thing - these vary from
plastic to metal waterers to a gadget you screw a canning jar in to.
To start small numbers of chicks the latter will work fine and will cost
you a couple dollars at a farm supply store. For larger numbers of
chicks get a gallon fount which runs a couple of dollars more.
Remember chicks MUST have plenty of water. The more they eat and
drink the better and faster they grow...and the healthier they will be!
If you plan on having a couple dozen layers your next purchase will be a
five gallon steel waterer - these will run about $20-25. For
starting you'll need one gallon for each 50 chicks - the first few days
add a couple tablespoons of sugar to the water. This gives young
birds a little boost. Once you have your watering system figured
then get feeders. Chick feeders come in various sizes, many are
metal with a slide in top and holes chicks can reach through. You'll
need two feet for each 50 chicks. Adult birds should have a steel
feeder which will look similar to your waterer but is open on top.
Starter feeders are a couple dollars; the bigger ones will run more but
will be needed as your birds grow. The other thing you will need for
starting is a brooder light. This is a hooded bulb - for small
numbers a regular 100 watt lightbulb will do. The lights can often
be found for about $5. You will also need a closed, tight area to
start chicks in. For small numbers a large dog crate can be used.
It is best, however to allow about a half foot per bird.
Overcrowding can be deadly.
Now you have all your supplies, you've decided which
chicks you want, you've ordered your chicks, waited anxiously and
finally... they're here!
The morning of arrival you should fill waterers and
feeders, and turn the light on. Ideally, you'll start out placing
the light in a large box or other means of containing heat. New
chicks must be kept at 90 degrees for the first week. If they get
too cold they can pile on each other and kill each other. Often the
one killed is the strongest...as they get under the pile to stay warm then
are smothered. Later, you can reduce the heat by 5 degrees per week.
Once the chicks have feathered out, they become very hardy. You'll
need to keep them from getting wet in spring storms, and protect them from
cats, dogs and other animals that would consider chick nuggets a good
snack.
When your chicks arrive...take each chick individually and
dip its beak in the water. This immediately gets each chick
drinking. When you dip the beak they should then throw their head
back and open and close their mouth quickly...as soon as they do this let
them go. Most will then go back and drink more! The
first day sprinkle starter feed on the floor as well as offer it in
troughs. This makes it very easy for the chicks to find food.
The faster they get eating and drinking the better. Most chicks,
once they had a drink, will automatically start looking for food so have
it already there for them. You may waste a little putting it on the
brooder floor, but it's very important in seeing that they get a good
start. Again (and this can't be stressed enough!) never let your
chicks run out of feed or water. Most chick loss happens when they
don't get a good start eating and drinking.
Also, leave plenty of space...chicks are cannibalistic.
They will turn on weaker members if they are too crowded. Larger
breed chicks will need a good quality high protein starter. Be
prepared to part with $8-10 for a 50-pound bag. If there are a few
chicks not getting to the feed, separate them out in a smaller group so
there is less competition for food/water. A kiddy wading pool or
stock tank makes a good brooder...just be SURE it doesn't get water
collecting in it. A storm or unseen leak overhead can drown your
chicks. If the chicks start laying too closely together, or on top
of one another, they are too cold. If they stay far apart they could
be too warm. Observe your chicks daily; spend 5-10 minutes minimum
after feeding and watering just watching them. Note which ones are
bossy and which are the lower ranking ones and how they are all eating?
Do they appear comfortable? The first few days chicks are apt to get
under the heat bulb and sprawl out sleeping.
Make certain that the heat bulb is hung securely.
Especially don't let it fall and touch anything, as this can be a fire
source, especially with in conjunction with bedding materials. If
the room is open and not heated, it might be better to use a regular heat
lamp rather than a light bulb. The important thing is to keep a
circle of appropriate heat for the amount of chicks you have.
There are many sources for birds and equipment. A
check at your local farm supply store such as Farm & Fleet or Big R will
be the best place to get equipment as well as starter feed. A good
feed salesman familiar with your area is a valuable asset.
Online there are many sources for birds. A few of
these are:
http://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com
http://www.cacklehatchery.com
http://www.strombergschickens.com
I have personally ordered from the first two, and I highly
recommend them for beginner birds.
For additional information in much more detail there are
several free email lists at
www.yahoogroups.com - among
them:
countryside-elist
rarelivestock
Homestead_poultry
There are experienced people on all these lists who can
help you with questions and any problems that come up. I
moderate the first two.
Raising poultry is a great way to put food on the table.
It takes minutes per day and not a lot of expense. Once grown,
chickens love goodies like garden scraps and kitchen waste. Most of
all, you'll find that store eggs don't begin to compare with eggs
from your own hens.
