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Understanding the Blues:  A Guide to Gorgonzola by Dustin Eirdosh

continued from page one

Setting the Curd

Step 1: Pasteurize the milk

This step is optional, though the complexities of dealing with raw-milk cheeses are beyond the scope of this article.  Pasteurization gives you a blank-slate in terms of the microbiology of the milk - allowing for significantly more control and predictability in your process.  Using a standard hot water bath, heat the milk to 145F, for 30 minutes - stirring regularly.  Change out the water and cool the milk to 97F.   

Step 2: Add the Culture and Lipase

Once you have stabilized the temperature at 97F, add the required quantity of starter culture and .07g of Lipase enzyme per gallon of milk (~1/4 tsp) - dilute the Lipase in 1/4 cup of distilled water a few minutes prior to adding.   

You have several options when it comes to the starter culture- each with varying implications for cost, flavor, and technical complexity.  If you are nervous about the process as is, just use the Ricki Carrol method, with simple pre-measured packets of direct-set mesophilic culture (www.cheesemaking.com).  If you want to experiment, and have access to a gram-scale, purchase cultures from Dairy Connection (www.DairyConnection.com).  The "MA 4000" Farmhouse blend of mesophilics with a small amount of thermophilic culture will work - or you can blend your own.  For this use equal parts MA and MD (for flavor development), with a small quantity of TA (for enhanced acid development).   

After adding starter culture and lipase, stir thoroughly, then let the milk sit or "prime" for 30 minutes.

Step 3: Add Rennet and Blue Culture

Add 1/2 tsp of liquid rennet per gallon, diluted in 1/4 cup of distilled water.  Add blue spore culture as directed.  Stir thoroughly for 30 secs, use ladle to calm the milk to a stand still.  Let the milk set for 45 mins before you begin checking for a clean break.

Cutting and Stirring the Curd

Step 4: Check for Clean Break

As the rennet enzyme works it's magic on the acidified milk (remember- you lowered the pH of the milk by culturing it with lactic acid bacteria), it will form a wonderful curd.  About 45 mins after adding the rennet, you can check for a clean break.  Do this by sticking your (clean!) middle and index fingers into the curd at a 45 degree angle, lifting slightly while you break the surface tension with your thumb.  You want to see a nice clean line, as if it's been cut with a knife.  Depending on factors such as the age of your milk and the temperature at which you cultured it, getting a clean break could occur anywhere between 40 - 80 minutes.  Don't worry too much, and definitely wait until it gives you a satisfactory break.

Step 5: Cut the Curd

Being satisfied with your clean break, you can now cut the curd.  Using a long knife or flat spatula, make cuts at a 45 degree angle, every inch, rotate and repeat these cuts perpendicular to your first pass.  Your goal is to have as even as possible distribution of 1"X1" cubes of curd throughout your vat when done.  This is somewhat impossible for the home-scale producer lacking specialized curd cutting knives, so just try to make the cuts as consistent as you are able to.  When you've made all of your cuts- remove the knife and let the curds sit - DO NOT DISTURB

 

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